Climbing Sucks...at the moment!

Went to holyhead mountain at the weekend and got spanked! I climbed some S on the left hand side of the crag and was totally uninspired. So thought I would have a go at King Bee Crack, a classic HVS.

I got about half way, came off boxed and just couldn't be bothered with evening trying it from there. I lowered down and thought I'd go again. The climbing wasn't that hard, sustained but still HVS. I just couldn't be bothered. Psyche is at an all time low!  Thinking about why this might be has lead me to ask why my mindset has changed from the start of the year - feeling confident - to now.

With such a crappy weather this summer, whenever it's good I've 'had' to get out. This requirement has turned climbing into a chore again. It's not fun and I've started to place an outcome on day. e.g. if I don't lead at least 1 HVS it's been a waste of a day.

I've also stopped training which has left me feeling weak and unfit.  I'm not sure if this is actually the case, it must have some effect but not sure if it's as big as I'm making out. And falling, I just won't at the moment.  All in all my head is in an awful place. So it's time to have a break from climbing, this is probably only a few days where the weather is good and I don't go out climbing to get the desire to go and and just climb for fun - not just because the weather is good.

I also want to get fit! With winter approaching (seems a long way off but it will be here sooner than I think) I want to feel at fit as possible.  I've been reading Mark Twight's book Extreme Alpinism and it's got me psyched for training and getting seriously fit!  So I'm going to join the gym again and start weight training to work on some aspects of my physique which are causing me problems. I'll also be training at the wall. The final update is that I'm moving my blog to here. So check back for updates if your interested.

Fingers crossed normal service will resume soon!

A Few Classics

It’s been a while since I posted anything so I thought I’d better get back to it. I've been out reasonably regularly despite the weather but not often enough to feel comfortable.  Since my last post I’ve managed to get out for 11 days’ worth of climbing. That’s only 20% and for a few of those days we ended up just walking as the weather crapped out on the walk in.

Despite this lack of good weather, and an over-riding lack of psyche to get out, there have been a few more memorable routes. 

Tremadog is owned by the BMC and sits on the road between Caernarfon and Beddgelert.  Arriving at Eric’s café and camp site, a traditional stopping place for climbers which has been written in to climbing folk law, the best of the crags, Craig Bwlch y Moch, towers above.  As you make your way up, you might be deceived in to thinking you’ve arrived at the wrong place or you’ve been sand-bagged by a fellow climber.  The trees hide the great lines above, instead a series of ugly looking grooves run upwards through overhangs. But do not fear, the ochre slab and the line of Vector giving some indication as to what waits above for the intrepid leader. 

Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog), with the imposing Vector bu tress in the centre. Image taken from here.

Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate.

With the weather looking good for Tremadog Hannah, Ben and myself decided we’d head out. After having to turn round after about 5 miles due to Ben’s shiny new half ropes still being in his bedroom, we made our way under some dark rain clouds, and through an utter deluge just past Chester.  Arriving at Eric’s Café, paying our £1 parking fee and gearing up, we headed up to plum buttress and the start of Christmas Curry

Wanting to lead the crux pitch meant I’d be leading first.  Going slightly past the belay, the other two followed quickly and Ben carried on to with 2^nd pitch quickly.

Off up the first pitch of Christmas Curry.

Ben leaving the belay. 

A final look at the guide book, taking note not to take the initially easier, lower, traverse as this leads to the 5b crux of The Plumb. It all looked pretty thin for HS 4b but I made steady progress.  Looking at the higher traverse I elected to stay a little lower. After traversing for a few meters I realised this was the exact description the guidebook suggested I avoided – I did get a good look at the 5b crux of The Plumb though. 

After making what feels like some thin moves for 4b, you head right for the Micah Eliminate finish. This comprised of climbing the arête to the top. On a fine day a lovely prospect, on a windy day a little less so. I always find arêtes a little scary and this one was no exception. The holds are positive and it was a joy to climb, perhaps retrospectively. Whatever grade you climb, I think this should be on everyone’s tick list.  It was great to tick and a route I’d been waiting years to do.

Stepping on to the arête, the exposure getting the old ticker going!  

One Step in the Clouds

After a spot of food we headed off to Vector Buttress. One Step is a classic VS 4c which finds a line of weakness up the Vector Buttress.  The first couple of pitches follow a series of short groves, past a large tree to a prominent V groove. I lead the first, making my way up an award V groove to the tree and the best runner on the route.  Next a crack bars progress. A few slippery hand jams and some torquing of the feet lead to a massive flake belay.  I thought the jams were great, the crack providing the most interesting part of the pitch! Hannah and Ben elected to ignore the crack and use some small crimps and bridge the corner – more jamming practise for these two!  At this point, the upper section of the climb is still out of view.  After swapping gear and checking the guide Ben lead off.  Even after a few meters are gained, all does not become apparent – Ben asking for the description again just to double check.  The good initial rightward crack peters out and your left looking at a rather blank and featureless slab of dolerite – are you sure this VS? 

Continuing rightwards, small holds present and the line becomes clearer.  Again the exposure arrives quickly, the pitch below giving no indication. This section of bold climbing is broken by a large flake and a moment of respite, giving you chance to look at the expanse of space between you and the ground below.  A look further up reveals more apparently blank rock.

A positive approach is rewarded with some holds and a good runner or two. For those who cannot stand the intricate and intense climbing any longer, an escape into Hail Bebe can be made but composure will be rewarded;  if you’ve made it this far the climbing above is no harder.  Keep breathing and the sanctuary of the belay arrives, giving you time to savour experience sat on the edge of the mighty vector buttress. 

The final pitch shares the same ground as Hail Bebe - a quality, if much more amenable, VD. Pad up the slab to a large diagonal flake, place a runner, and romp along this to the final belay. 

Heading back down,  having climbed two classic routes – beer o’clock was called and we headed to the pub to bask in our glory. 

BAW’s Crawl

Gritstone at the best of times has some very esoteric routes and moves. If you haven’t climbed on it ‘easy’ routes can be very perplexing, especially if you haven’t learnt the mystical art of jamming.

I hadn’t climbed on the grit since April/May so decided that a steady approach was the way to go. After climbing Flying Buttress (3* VD), Holly Bush Crack (3* VD) and Balcony Buttress (3* S 4a) we headed to BAWs Crawl (3* HVS 5a).  Stood at the bottom, the roof looks pretty intimidating, but I had an idea of how to Climb it.

Baw's Crawl (3* HVS 5a), the dotted line shows the line the route takes. Image taken from here.

After placing some gear I tried to hang on and heel hook my way along the shelf below the roof, eventually, lying feet first on the shelf and shuffling my bum along until I hit the flake and stepped out on to the final slab. This is certainly a move I’ve never done before and not sure how often I will in the future but it’s a great climb and the crux is well protected!

Light House Arête

Gogarth is a very unique experience.  It is generally bold, sparsely protected with some suspect rock.  This results in climbers needing a cool, controlled approach – not a place to hammer out the basics.  The first time 

I climbed here, with Andy, can be described as nothing less than an Epic.  After being told A Dream of White Horses was too much too soon for us, we headed there to prove the doubters wrong.  In hindsight, what a wonderful thing it is, it most certainly was. After leaving one rope at the Ab station, dropping gear and eventually escaping at the penultimate belay the experience left a rather salty taste in my mouth. 

Since then I have wanted to go back and give Gogarth another go, to conquer the fear that it left me with.  

After two more years of climbing, and lots more multi-pitching and learning the ropes (every pun intended), I thought I might just about to be ready to face my demons.  This was perhaps further compounded as it was going to be Hannah’s first sea cliff experience – a good choice? Only time would tell.

Getting there early, the weather looked good so we parked up and headed down.  We picked lighthouse arête as it was described as the first route that should be done in your Gogarth career. It was also surrounded by other routes which we could have a go at afterwards. 

Setting the abseil up, the adrenalin was coursing through my veins.  Memories of Dream surfacing, more like a distant nightmare.  Abbing in things only got worse, but at least we had both ropes this time and I knew how to set-up a hanging belay!  After a short breakdown in communication, our ‘numbered pull on the rope system’ worked and Hannah headed down to the sea level ledge and we sorted ropes. 

Setting up the abseil to get to the starting ledge 50m below.

The abseil in, not psyched!

By now the sweat was pouring down my forehead, the anxiety start to present with obvious physical symptoms. I needed to start climbing, to stop thinking and just get on with it – the thought of doing something is usually much worse than actually doing it! I knew I could climb it, VS 4c it’s not a problem. Just being here, way down here and the only way out is all the way up there. I was just Up there, why have I come down here – I was safe up there!

Starting out, the route traverses left from the belay and up to the arête proper.  This was fairly easy and it was good to be climbing, good to stop thinking. Hannah followed and we swapped at the belay – her enjoyment seeming a lot more than mine.  Was I enjoying it? Doesn’t matter, got to climb it now. 

The view from the first belay, the rest of Castell Helen round to the Left.

The next Pitch looked a little more spicy. From the belay you traverse right and enter a crack. Gear is all good and you belay just below a roof, which looked like the crux.  Now I was starting to flow, things felt in control again, I was enjoying it again.  The demons were being banished. 

Hannah making her way to the first belay

At the belay (right), showing sign she might enjoy this sea cliff malarkey!

Hannah arrived, smiling as always and giving positive encouragement. It’s good to have someone who continually gives you a boost when your climbing, tells you your OK when you get a bit panicked. From the belay a roof and corner wait above. Place some gear, pull through the roof on good holds and bridge up the corner, savouring the wild exposure and awesome position – not bad this for VS.  The final pitch is a plod back to the abseil point. 

As we arrived a number of people were just abbing in.  We called it a day as they were going on the route we were going to do next, Rap VS 4c, and we were off for a Sunday roast at my sisters just outside Bangor. 

If you want a route that’s fairly easy but with all the exposure that both Gogarth and sea cliff climbing brings, then this route is certainly recommended!

Hannah seconding pitch 2, loving the exposure and the climbing.

We headed to Cornwall last week and Moonraker, listed as possibly the best HVS in England.  I'll write a separate post for this one as it was such an awesome route. 

 

"When you've given everything, what do you have left?"

Training is going well, although this endurance phase is pretty boring, never really sure if your achieving much as your not at your limit, or that's the way it feels. This is no doubt due to being at about 50% pump for the whole session. When you train power endurance, or strength, you know your pushing it as you keep falling off. at the moment the whole point is not to fall off but to get loads of mileage.  I think I'm getting it about right though.

There is a really interesting video on UKC at the moment by Tyler Stableford about Steve House, an american Alpinist who has put up some very hard and extreme routes  including a recent climb on the Central Pillar of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. He has also written a book Beyound the Mountain. Another one for the reading list I think.  Check out the review here

Training Cycle

After an enjoyable weekend (I forgot to add my previous post until this morning) in London it's time to get the training on the go again.

After a little bit of thought, and figuring out dates etc, I've decided that a meso-cycle will probably suit me best.  Eric Horst talks about these in his book, Training for Climbing. In particular he talks about two modes, 4-3-2-1 or a 3-2-1 cycle.

The 4-3-2-1 cycle is usually used by climbers who are training properly for the first time and is used to introduce them to periodization. He suggest using a 3-2-1 cycle for climbers who have used periodization before. I've tried the 3-2-1 cycle before and have never really felt that any of the phases are long enough.

With that in mind I plan on doing a 3-3-3 cycle, broken down as such:

3 weeks Endurance, 3/4 session per week.  This is then split into a two week endurance phase and a strength power phase. 

3 weeks Power Endurance Phase, 3 session per week.  This phase is designed such that I'll be operating near my maximum for most the session but still performing a high number of movements. This will allow me to build local forearm endurance the result being an increase capillary density and luminal diameter. This changes will enable me to keep climbing in a pumped state.    

3 weeks Strength Phase (increase in power), 3 session per week.  This phase is a lower volume but close to my maximum. I'll also be adding in the use of a finger board.  I'll still be working the power endurance aspect but adding in the fingerboard as opposed to bouldering for example. 

This should take me up to the end of August and a trip to Ceuse.  

We had our first session yesterday and it went pretty well and am going again this evening.  I've got to write down some clear goals again but I'll put these up once I've done them.

This will be the first time I've had such a detailed training plan so it will be very interesting to see how it works.  I have a good feeling that it will be better than my previous attempts which have had some general structure but were quite fluid.  This way I can really find out what my weaknesses are and see some clear improvement.

  

Rain, Rain, Go away!

Will we ever have a proper summer? It would appear not.  With the weather looking pretty poor it's time to bite the bullet and get back indoors. I've been putting it off for a few weeks now but, with a planned trip to Ceuse in August with Joe and Hannah, the time has come to start suffering some pain again! I think this gives me about 8 weeks to get fit. I really want to be feeling super fit for this trip so, as much as I don't want, I need to sit down and put a proper training plan together. I think the overriding theme will be lots of climbing and lots of falling.  Ceuse sports some well spaced bolts by all accounts so I want to be well prepared mentally for it; it's also long and the 'easy' routes aren't that easy!  I'm looking forward to it though! This should also put me in good shape for the grit this year.


Previously, around that time of year, I haven't done much climbing or training so as the grit starts to come in to season again I'm usually not at my peak (have I ever been?), both physically and mentally. It's going to be interesting to get out and see what I can achieve on grit.  


I've also received a copy of  Extreme Alpinism: Climb Light, Fast, and High by Mark Twight.  This is THE book to have on getting yourself in shape for alpine climbing. A cursory glance last night showed it has everything you need to be in the best physical and mental shape you need to be in to meet the demands of high level alpinism. It has whole section on physical training so I plan on incorporating some of it into my training regime as I think I could probably do with increasing my base level of fitness and endurance.


Although we've just had the summer solstice my mind is drifting towards the winter already. By putting together an effective training program each stage will build upon the last and it should be a very fruitful 6 months.

We're off to London this weekend to visit a friend, so have 4 hours to kill on the coach journey. A perfect opportunity to start putting together some training goals etc.

Enjoy your weekend folks!

Must Try Harder...Back to The Training Board

So I've finally got round to writing an update. It's been a while as I've lost a little momentum with work so had to concentrate on that.  There have been some ups and downs recently but I'm certainly happier with my climbing in general, it's moving forward albeit at a rather slowed pace (again).

Kilnsey Crag in the morning light, check out that roof!

The last time I posted I'd been to the lakes and had a good weekend; ticking MGC being the highlight. A few weeks ago myself and Joe headed to Kilnsey. Unfortunately, in terms of climbing prospects at least,  I had been out the night before. Although I didn't have too much to drink I didn't get to bed until 3. Picking up Joe at 8 was a real struggle but I managed it, just about. Luckily Joe had been out the previous night so he wasn't feeling his best either.

Kilnsey is another limestone crag in Yorkshire and is appears less intimidating than Malham in scale. Although the huge roof at it's top looks pretty damn intimidating! It also breeds a different style of climbing. Malham (WHEY!!!!) is all about sidepulls and using the foot holds to figure out a sequence.  Kilnsey on the other hand has reasonable foot holds, fewer sidepulls but very powerful moves.  I though this would suit my style - how wrong can 1 man be? Well pretty damn wrong. After warming up (and fannying about going to use the toilet in the village)  we got on Open road (6c). Joe put the draws in and I tied in - that was about as sucessful as the day got! I don't very often get freaked out by climbing, I lack confidence in doing the moves, but not freaked out. This was one of those days - pulling on draws, shouting take, worrying about if my knot was safe - just about everything that I could possibly worry about.

Enter my mental strategies which I've spoken about.  It was OK because I was out, enjoying myself and climbing a certain grade isn't the aim of the game.  


We stripped the route and moved on. I decided I'd put the draws into Direct flight (7a+) and work this instead.  Clip sticking my way up the route (use a device to clip yourself and the rope into the bolts from the bolt below) I got to the anchors and felt a little better. I still didn't have the sequence dialled so I was going to keep top roping it. On my second go working the route I could barely get off the ground and despite being on a top rope felt pretty spooked out again.  I stripped the route and decided to call it a day.  Joe hadn't faired much better all day (too much meat and beer at a BBQ the day before) so we sacked it off and went to get some organic ice-cream. This was the best tick of the day!

I felt pretty dejected by it all but on reflection it was perhaps a likely outcome.  I hadn't climbed at the venue before and I was tired and hunger over.  This probably wouldn't have been such a problem had I not been climbing at what is extensible my current limit. I've also been pretty slack on the training front, not wanting to waste money on climbing indoors when it could be used to get outside! Excuses aside I still felt pretty down beat about my climbing.

Although I keep saying failure is the key to success, it should be because it's at my limit not because I'm tired and hungover. Keeping yourself accountable requires you to be objective about the reasons why we didn't succeed, not making up excuses for why we are allowed to fail!

That was most definitely the low point of the last few weeks. It can be hard to use failures as motivation to improve of keep pushing yourself. Why not just give up, that way we don't have to feel the hardship of not achieving. This attitude is short-sighted, giving up leads to long term unhappiness as we never truly realise (or even get close to) our full potential.  With a renewed focus to keep getting out on the real rock and varying the styles of climbing the last few weeks have been better.

A trip to North Wales with Joe and Jon for the weekend came next.  With some suspect looking weather we decided to head to Lower Pen Trywn (LPT as it's affectionately known).  While waiting for the tide to head out Jon bouldered at the Parisella's cave while me and Joe headed to Upper Pen Trywn to try Axel Attack (7a), With Joe almost getting the onsight.  I on the other hand could barely get off the ground.  I felt totally weak and drained so I left Joe to it and just belayed. Heading down to LPT we got on what was supposed to be a 2 star 6b Kaffe Fasset. After some scary climbing (grass holds are always cool!) I clipped the chains and lowered off.  Joe had a similar experience; concluding that this Kaffe Fasset was definitely monotone brown! Finishing off with under the board walk (6c) and top roping Face Race (7a+).  The climbing at LPT is different again and although I was initially under whelmed, I'm quite keen to go back.

Heading over to Llanberis the plan was to go bouldering.  We had our breakfast in the pass, parking up and cooking it just next to the roadside boulders is a pretty sweet way to start the day! The outcome of a few hours walking and all of about 4 problems is that I'm not very strong at the moment, anything above V4 feels pretty damn hard.  We sacked it off and headed over to the slate and get on gnat attack (E1 5b). This route is awesome and I can't recommend it enough! The description is


"A delicate line up the right hand edge of the slab. Climb carefully to a break then traverse rightwards to the first bolt. Thin moves (harder for the short) lead up to the second bolt, followed by an easier run-out to the top."

Gnat Attack, E1 5b, Bus Stop Quarry Gwynedd. The 3 red dots show the two bolts
and the lower off - it's a little run out (photo taken from Life at the End of a Rope Blog). 

I really enjoyed climbing it and felt pretty steady on it.  The two run out sections are easy but it could be easy to get spooked out and drop it. I didn't realise just how run out it was until I was lowering off, thanks Jon for pointing me at it! 

With work not going too well I had to ease off the climbing during the week and concentrate on work. I was pretty worried that this would really affect my climbing but a weekend in the lakes quelled that fear to some extent. Leading another E1 at Shepherd's Crag in the lakes. We headed up to Borrowdale for the jubilee weekend: myself, Hannah, Jen, Matt, Andy and Daz.  Due to lack of signal we met up with Andy, Daz and Matt on the Saturday.  

As my sister, Jen, had never been climbing before we started out at Shepherd's Crag on some easy angled slabs which I hadn't done before either on the Thursday. After she'd had a taste I had a go at Conclusion (E1 5b).  The lower section is the crux, after which the climbing eases to about HVS.  Hannah seconded the route clean with some interesting Bum Shuffle technique to get over the first roof.  

We headed up to the Napes to do needle ridge to give my sister an idea of what a full mountain day is like.  After being a apprehensive due to some narrow approach paths she cruised it, enjoying the exposure and making easy work of the climbing. The decent from the top of Napes crag, appropriately named Great Hell Gate, is rather interesting and my sister found it..well..less enjoyable than the climbing.  Once we got down we headed to Keswick for some Pub grub and well earned pint!

And that's about it.  With work busy at the moment I'm finding it hard to fit in training 3 times a week as well as going out, so I've prioritised getting out at least once a week to keep my hand in. This should, at the very least, keep me shape. The plan is to consolidate the grades of E1/HVS and 6c-7a.  Then once work eases off hit the training hard again.  With a trip to Ceuse on the horizon I'm super keen to get back to it, despite it meaning I have to spend more time indoors!

The last few weeks has also shown me that getting pissed and not enough sleep the night before you go climbing really doesn't help, so why do I do it?  Make a choice about what you really want and stick to it! After the couple of E1s I've lead this year, with some time in between them, I finally feel like I've broken the infamous E barrier.  Now climbing E5 doesn't seem like the insurmountable task it did before.  I still need to actually get on some; had a play on White Wall in the Peak but that's it.  Fingers crossed for some decent weather again! I want to get back on the training though because I'm not feeling as fit or as strong as I did after Spain it just making it part of my routine again - watch this space!

Crack Addict

So after what feels like an age I've finally gotten round to writing a blog update. Luckily for you this isn't it. I will post it very soon though so watch this space!  

For those of you out there that would like to improve your climbing (don't we all?) then check out this series of videos from Wild Country and the crack climbing masters Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, A.K.A The Wide Boyz. For those who don't have a crack habit then you should get one, it's very addictive and great fun!  If anyone can name all the peak district cracks they're on then I'll buy you a pint - answers on a comment. 



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 1 - Finger Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 2 - Hand Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 3 - Fist Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 4 - Offwidth Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Crack School Episode 5 - Gear and Gear Placement - by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 6 - Taping - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.

Failure is the road upon which we must travel to arrive at our destination of success

After reading a few motivation quotes, I thought I would come up with my own! The reason for writing this post is that I just watched a video which I saw a while back now and it got me thinking about what inspires us to want to improve and become more successful, both in terms of climbing and life in general, and how things can change very rapidly when something comes along which changes our physical capability to do so.



 Either way, Paul Pritchard is a very inspirational person! We should stop making excuses about why we can't do something and think up of the reasons why we want to do it, and if we can't come up with any good reasons we probably shouldn't be doing it!

Lakeland Cherry Popping

With a bank Holiday weekend available, climbing was most certainly on the cards!

Ben had asked if I fancied the lakes; he and Nathan were keen, so I needed to find a partner. Originally Hannah was coming, but with exams just round the corner she chose to give it a miss. With a few others keen, I gave Andy a shout and the top and tail of it was yes - he was psyched for it!

As Hannah had an interview on the Thursday in Birmingham, we could kill a few birds with one stone and see a few people and give Andy a lift. An early finish at work, car packed and Hannah dropped off at home, we headed to Trowbarrow.

After me, and others, raving about how good Jean Jeaine was Andy decided that Jean Jeaine was the order of the day. Gearing up the tension was obvious. Standing at the bottom of this 25m route, the top certainly feels much further than that and it's VS 4c all the way.

Andy started the route tentatively. Having not been on the sharp end for a while, it was going to be a challenge, but he stepped up to the mark. After a few metres he started to flow and things were going nicely. Up to the first crux and, as can be the case on limestone, most of Andy's gear was suspect to say the least. Also never having climbed on limestone, some might say that the odds were stacked against him. He wasn't having any of it and cruised the first crux.

Now with a few metres between him and his last piece of gear, a wide crack offers some bomber gear. Fiddling in the largest Hex he had, it dropped down the and lodged itself deep in the crack. After trying for about 10 minutes to retrieve it, he had to carry on. (It took me a good 30 minutes to retrieve the Hex when I seconded the route).

At about two thirds height, the crack widens and this forms the next crux. Again, after a good deal of puffing, panting and a few noises, it was done. At this point I kept telling Andy that the rest was easy, in a few moves there were jugs, in fact knowing that the next jug was the last hold - still some 5 or 6 metres away. Although the final few meters have good holds, the crack curves to the right, continually making you feel off balance. With a cam in his mouth and ever increasing amounts of forearm pump Andy certainly followed the old climbing adage: IF IN DOUBT, RUN IT OUT. Getting further and further away from his last gear, he placed the cam clipped it and just kept going; knowing all the time that the cam was crap. He hit the last hold, pulled on to the top and was one satisfied customer! Not a bad start to the weekend at all!

We stopped off at the pub on way up to Borrowdale (and the tesco for supplies, mainly beer!) for a celebratory pint. Reaching the campsite at about 10, and after a few beers in the car, the prospect of putting the tent up wasn't one which we relished so we slept in the car. Surprisingly a good nights sleep was had.

After a bit of faffing the following day we headed to Shepard's Crag. The plan was to get warmed up on Little Chamonix, a classic VD which is a must for any climber of any level! Unfortunately our relaxed start meant a rather large cue so we carried on down to the crag to find something free. Stopping a few meters to the left I picked out Fishers Folly, a 2 pitch VS 4c. Not wanting to faff with setting up belays a linked both pitches. The first pitch consists of a corner up to a large large block, with some interesting moves.  The second is a traverse out right for about 5 m and then a pull over a small overhang. This is a great little climb,   giving interesting climbing throughout on good holds. Andy seconded, the traverse certainly feeling the harder of the two pitches (they always do when you start thinking about the swing).

With the cue still as big for Little Cham, I decided to get on something else. Also not want to walk very far I thought I'd jump on route next to Fishers, M.G.C., E2 5c.


A superb line following the obvious crack over two bulges. Committing moves are needed for the crux moves (easier for the tall). Where the crack stops, mantle onto a ledge for a welcome arm rest before finishing up the pleasanly easing upper slab. 

M.G.C, E2 5c. (Image taken by UKC user Rob Gibson)

The C.C. guide I had said 'attracts many failures'. Well I'm not a failure so no worries for me - that was the thought going through my head, it was almost like a red rag to a bull. With bomber gear below both crux's it was a no brainer to not give it a whirl.  After sussing the first crux (nearly came off the first time I tried it) I got to the jugs and shook out. Tried the next crux a few times, reversed until I decided what I was going to do, then went for it. A few hearty pulls and it was over. The upper section was easy and overall it felt ok.

After that we finally got on Little chamonix. With a cue at the first belay (a few beginners were having issues) we had to sit about for a bit but there are worse places to sit that's for sure.  We linked the next 3 pitches together to save time. Andy lead the first and me the next.  I skipped the bum shuffle across the block, instead opting for a more elegant (if possibly harder) step around it. A great rout either way and a nice way to finish the day.

On Sunday we headed up to Raven crag with Corvus in mind. A 3 star, 7 pitch (we did it in 4) Diff. I'd seen pictures of the final pitch which involves a hand traverse in a great situation.  Despite the weather initially looking a bit suspect, it cleared up and we had an awesome day taking it easy enjoying the view!

The hand traverse pitch on Corvus. A great route and certainly worth it for this pitch alone! (Image taken by Russell Lovett

  The Monday was less productive as the weather crapped out on us but an awesome weekend for sure. With work being full on at the moment it's good to be getting out and still feeling strong despite not training properly. Hopefully I'll be back on the training soon!

Hope you all had a good bank holiday weekend too!

P.S. The title of this blog relates to the fact Andy had never been to the lakes!

Plastic pulling sucks!

After a week off it's time to get back on the training. This, unfortunately, involved going back indoors. After a weekend of dismal weather, we thought everywhere would either be wet or seeping so me and Joe headed to MCC.

I was a little apprehensive about climbing indoors again.  I felt that after Spain I should be pretty fit and be able to cruise the 7a's, and possibly 7b's, in the centre.  This wasn't the case, I fell off the 6c+ I tried.  So the question is why?  Well first of all I had to get used to clipping every half a metre again, this has the effect of stopping you every other move to hang on and clip.  For a number of routes I just forgot to clip as I wasn't used to it. I don't want to get used to it either, having a bolt every half a metre doesn't really do much for mindset about falling and I was just getting used to it in Spain!

After 6 routes we called it a day. I'm going again this evening with Ste so we'll see how that goes. I've experienced similar before, having had time from the indoor environment and then when you return it feels hard, despite the fact you've been climbing harder outdoors.  I see it as another challenge and after a few sessions I think I'll be used to again and be crushing 7a's and b's!

I've been given the all clear by the physio which is good news.  The neurological problem I had has now disappeared, it was probably created as a by-product of an initial soft tissue problem.  The way to keep free of  the problem - lots of aggressive stretching!  All this means is really pushing the stretches and holding them for at least 90s.  This has the effect of getting my brain to disengage the muscle, allowing it to relax. I just need to chill out man!  If your in the Manchester area and are suffering from climbing related injuries I cannot recommend SportMed enough, and in particular Rich.  If your not then my advice is check to see if the physio has a history of dealing with climbing related problems. If they don't I would say find someone that does!

After a week off from climbing I'm really keen to get back to training.  I'm going to re-evaluate my goals now that it's been a few months and see where I stand, hopefully I have made some progress. Although I don't think I've ticked many of my goals I think the mindset which I have is much more positive.  I'm not getting too hooked on a certain grade or routes (Still want to do London Wall though!) just trying to have fun along the way.

Main things I want to concentrate on over the next 3 month period are

(1) Improve finger strength - my finger strength is feels pretty woeful at the moment. Now that my arms are not giving me grief I can add a bouldering session into my training which should help this. I'm also want to be more consistent with my fingerboard workouts.  Jon is training pretty hard at the moment so I'm going to try and get some sessions in with him as he'll push me to keep pulling hard!

(2) Get outside - I really want to keep getting out on real rock. The number of climbs I've done (leading/redpoints) so far this year is more than I did all of last year. I think climbing outside is a key factor in improving, being able to read a sequence or spot footholds is much more important than whether I've done a 7a indoors.

(3) Consolidate E1/2 - after Spain where I either flashed or onsighted most 6bs I now have the confidence that climbing E1/2 is well with-in what I'm capable of.  To do this though I need to get out and do some! I think you have to be careful in making a direct comparison between sport and trad grades (6b/+ = E3/4 according to rockfax), but I know I'm more than physically capable of it, and the mental side comes with practice also so again, get out there!

I'll get some more concrete goals written down soon and post them but those are the general areas that I want to improve.  We're off to the lakes next weekend so it would be cool to tick an E1 but I'll be happy if the weather is good and I'm enjoying the climbing!

El Chorro

So after almost 2 weeks of no posting, I'm back from El Chorro.  I extended the stay by an extra 6 days to get more climbing done. I could have happily stayed for longer but with work looming in the back of my mind I knew that was about as much as I could get away with!

As it was a fairly long trip I'm just going to pick out a few highlights and some of the positives from the trip. It's all a little mixed up in my mind as to what day we did what so I'll just write it as it makes sense in my mind.

Firstly was the bunk-house which we managed to get in was pretty awesome.  The Olive Branch is a little B&B which has both a bunk house and camping facilities. It's Run by Gary and Mel and they are really friendly and very helpful. If you going out there then certainly give this place a look. I know I'll be staying there again! The other positive about this place is there is a crag right behind it. Las Encantatdas hosts a number of climbs (36 in the Rockfax guide) with most being in the 6b to 7b category with a few 8a and above routes.  It's a great place to go in it's own right with a couple of quality 7a's.  I ticked a really good 6c+ called La ley del Cateto. An easy lower section leads to a blank looking groove which you bridge up. After this a few fierce pulls on smaller slots and side pulls lead to a jug and the anchors. It took me about 5 goes to get it but it packs a lot of climbing in it's 24 metres.

    Chilling out before the upper crux section and after the smearing groove. 

We also got on a great 7a up there called Redders.  A tricky lower section leads to some jug pulling and a fantastic no hands rest in a grotty cave (complete with copious amounts of swallow poo!). From there some odd moves involving jamming and general thrutching lead to the anchors. Although the climbing wasn't too difficult from the cave, the bolt was a long way out right and good swing was going to be had should a fall be taken. I can confirm that the swing certainly is good! I fell coming out of the cave and with the anchors in sight. Do be warned though, if you attempt this route late in the evening swallows nest in the pockets of route. A number came out at a fast pace straight towards Joe's face on his go. This meant him checking each hold as he went along with tapping the rock and making a 'kakaa' sound! 

  

Joe pulling through the middle, juggy, section of Redders - watch out for the swallows mate.

Me taking the huge rest in the swallow poo cave of Redders, 7a, at Las Encantadas.

We also headed over to the Poem Cave to have a look at one of the classic 7a's, Poema de Roca. Described as a fun, and pumpy romp up up steep tufas and cracks it was certainly steep and good fun.  I'm a big advocate of onsight climbing climbing as I think it is climbing in it's purest form.  That being said, trying to onsight a classic route like this can be difficult.  So many people get on it there are chalked up holds everywhere. This results in you making about 5 moves to find the best hold which can really pump you out. After a warm up on a good 5+ and a 6b called Stonker we headed over. After waiting in a cue for a couple of hours we decided to go elsewhere and come back another day.  On our return the following week we had the line to ourselves. Ste put the draws in and I cruised my way to the rather odd head rest.  Not feeling too pumped I pushed on only for the pump to set in just as I was making the clip. I reversed and tried to recover at the rest but it wasn't enough and I was off.  This was certainly a theme of my trip, getting close to ticking alot of 7a's but not actually ticking one, more on this later. We went back for a 3rd day but I still couldn't manage it. Ste cruised it on his 2nd redpoint and Joe got the flash: Good work boys!  

Ste on his redpoint of Poema Da Roca, 7a.

The traverse right into the cracks and another good jug to rest on, just didn't have it in me to make the moves.  

The no hands head rest, it's better when you face the other way!

Once the decision had been made to go to El Chorro I had to get a guide book (I'm one of those people who trawls guide books until I know the routes pretty well - it get's me psyched for a trip!). There a were a few multi-pitch sport climbs to be had and the classic has got to be Amptrax.  At 6a the climbing isn't hard but you cartainly get some great exposure, the route being 140m long and having a 45m traverse in it.  Myself and Joe decided we'd give it a shot. In our intial excitement to do it, and after going slightly crazy on our rest day, we had banded the idea of simu-climbing it (i.e both climbing at the same time but still with a rope attached between us). Our better judgement took over on the day and we decided to climb it the old fashioned way and alternate leads. We'd also had a chat with some people from Edinburgh University climbing club and two of their group would be doing it the same day. The race was on, we got up early and picked up the pace to ensure we were first on route, and we were.  After a near miss scrambling to the bottom of the route, Joe pulling a hold off and nearly falling off, we got geared up and started.  

Amptrax. The line in black shows the 7 pitches which me and Joe climbed and the red line is the abseil we made to get back to ground.

Linking the first two pitches together, 3 and 5+, we were well on our way. Joe lead the next short 5+ pitch and we were going to swing leads from here.  At this point we noticed that the pair from the University club had started climbing. Not wanting to be caught up we decided to start linking the pitches again.  This meant I got to lead the two 6a pitches. It's some of the most fun and enjoyable climbing I have done; nothing particularly hard but interesting all the way. 

Belaying at the top of the two 6a pitches on Amptrax. Joe is 36m below at the last belay.  

This left Joe with the two traverse pitches which again we linked together. Again these involved some great climbing and some fantastic exposure.           

Joe off round round the corner on the traverse pitch.  

The route can be finished with an easy, but possibly loose, scramble or 4 35m abseils. We opted for the abseils, but with Joe's slightly shortened rope we weren't sure if we could make it to all the abseil points. This turned out to be case on the first abseil, the result of which was me hanging on a single bolt while Joe abseiled to another lower-off in order to get to the next abseil point - scary times. I told myself it was ok though as the bolt looked pretty new!  We eventually got down and headed to find Danny and Ben. I can certainly recommend Amptrax especially if it's with-in your onsight grade! Also bolted belays make a nice change to trad belays. With-in about 2 mins of getting to the belay you can have it set-up and have your partner really to climb. It probably only took us about 2 and 1/2 hours from top to bottom, with 45 mins being spent on getting down. 

The rest of the time was spent trying some of the 7a, 7a+ and 7b routes. Unfortunately I didn't tick any them (my goal was to try and tick 5 7a's!) but I feel like I've really improved while out there.  It can be hard, and pretty disheartening, to keep falling off stuff and not getting to the chains. But it was good to be on stuff that is testing me all the time.  My psyche stayed pretty high throughout and I was always keen to get on another route even if it I didn't get it clean.  

By using the mental strategies which I've spoken about it was easier to take positives from my climbing. I think the thing which is spurring me on more now is the thought that I was continually getting close to ticking 7a's and b's.  6 month's ago I thought 6a's and b's were about as good as I was ever going to get and my hardest redpoint was 6b, which I did over a year ago. Since I've started writing this blog I've ticked a few 6c's, a 6c+ and a 7a; things are certainly moving in the right direction!

 I'm already planning my trip back there in October and with one clear goal in mind: Lourdes, a classic 8a at Makinodromo - an unrelenting pitch up the central line of tufas that sports a hard start and a pulse-enhancing finish... When I go back I also want to flash all the routes which I have been unable to do on this trip.  Although 8a may appear a rather stratospheric target to some, I certainly feel that if I carry on with my training, get out as much as possible and continue keep pushing myself that 8a is most definitely on the cards!

The other interesting point to make note of is rest! I climbed for 12 days with 1 days rest.  I felt pretty battered but I was surprised with how well my body coped with it all. I think it is finally starting to get used to the level of intensity which is required to climb harder routes (it's only taken about 7 years!).  

Rests were also much more common on the routes in El Chorro. This is something which I wasn't used to and it took a while for me to make the most of them (I still don't think I took full advantage of them!). You don't experience them so much on British routes, or the ones I have climbed at least, as they tend to be short. Most pitches we climbed were 30m in length so many had some form of decent rest or, hard overhanging sections were interspersed with easier climbing where you could get really good shakeouts.  I think this will really help on the mountain trad routes which I want to start climbing, which tend to have more cruxy sections followed by easier sections.

The trip as a whole was absolutely class and I'm not sure I've laughed as much in a very long time.  We met some really cool people as well and it was great to hear about their experiences, of both El Chorro and other climbing areas.  It has certainly made me feel a lot more positive about my climbing and I know that I can achieve what I want to with my climbing.  I keen to see what how my fitness has improved, steep walk-ins and climbing for 12 days should certainly of helped that's for sure! I could be pretty downbeat about not getting a 7a (there were a few which I could have ticked but weren't worth it other than to say I had ticked a 7a) but I'm keeping the positives in mind. The two points which I keep in mind are that I had fun and it was independent of ticking a 7a. Secondly that I'm plenty powerful enough to tick 7a and 7b but I'm not making the best use of that power through poor technique. 

Oh and the final point is that Prince's are the best biscuit in the world, but we improved them by spreading them with copious amounts of nutella! A big thanks to the boys; Joe, Ben, Danny and Ste! Just remember folks -  Maka da chalk, maka da move, maka da clip and you maka da climb! 

Getting the Sport Climbing bug...

Despite Tuesday's dismal forecast I managed to get out and get some climbing in.  Headed over to New Mills Torr after work with a few things in mind. Some of the crag is under a viaduct so stays dry most of the time.  It was pretty dry when I arrived and things looked positive, the Sun even came out! That's about as far as it got though.

I warmed up on a couple of routes I'd done before. Next up was the ever dry Viaduct Wall, E2 5b. I've tried this route a few times before, with the crux being a precarious mantle. Trying it about 10 times, I couldn't commit to making the move.  Having no one to spot me on to the mat was pretty unnerving and after about half an hour of attempts I decided to call it a day and try something else.

There are a few traverses at New Mills, ranging from V1 to V7.  Again, I'd tried a few of these before but not really put much effort in.  I decided to try the low girdle, which goes at about V6. The start is pretty hard, going from a good flake into to wide pinch and some really small foot holds. I've never been able to do these moves before, not even in isolation. After about half an hour I could do each move in isolation but linking them feels right at my limit.  I feel much stronger compared to last time I tried the moves, but it will probably take a couple of sessions to get the moves wired.

After about 3 hours I decided to call it a day, and headed back home.  I felt kind of disheartened by not getting Viaduct wall, but I knew the reasons why. I just couldn't commit to the crux moves without someone spotting me. If you don't fall lots on pads it can feel very alien the first time you try, and it feels very high despite it being less than the height of average indoor bouldering wall! In order to have the confidence to climb at your limit above pads (or one in this case) it's important to do it on a regular basis so it becomes comfortable.  It does highlight an area of weakness with my trad climbing though, commitment! Despite knowing I can make make the moves on E1/E2 and E3, I still find it tough to commit to them. I know I have the strength and power to make the moves but I start to get scared. This probably comes down to a fear of falling on gear so I better start falling on gear! I've got a post ready on this so I'll put it up when back from Spain.

Ste was keen for a routing session at MCC on Wednesday. After not having a training session for at least a week, nearly 2, I was a little apprehensive as to what I was going to achieve. We decided to do a pyramid session of 10 routes ( actually did 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6a). I was certainly pleased with the session, I hadn't lost any gains and I sent a 6c (felt pretty easy) which I'd previously really struggled on. With Spain in mind, and my goal of 5 7a's.

Thursday and time for a battering at the physio. Some more massaging out the knots and traction left me feeling a little sore. I was given some exercises to allow the nerve to move more easily. These are certainly helping.  With the weather looking good, I gave Joe a call to check if he fancied getting out. As always he was keen! We headed over to Castle Inn Quarry, just off the A55, for some bolt clipping. Castle Inn Quarry has got to be one of the easiest places in the UK to climb from (don't drive down the footpath though, even though that's what the guidebook describes I'm sure!). The crag forms the wall of the car park, you could belay from your boot if you wished.

With a good selection of routes, we warmed up on route 1 (5+), then route 2(6a). Next were 3 6c routes. I had put the draws in the two warm ups and, encouraged by Joe, put the draws in this route. It didn't occur to me until later that this would be my hardest sport onsight grade.  The lower section is fairly straight forward, the first two bolts being clipped stood on really good ledges. After a little wobble on the crux moves, telling Joe I was coming off, I clipped the chains. Joe put the draws in the next two routes, The Cakewalk and Cakewalk Direct. Flashing The Cakewalk I was feeling really good and enjoying the climbing. The final route of the day, Cakewalk Direct, went pretty well with crux done and a little roof to finish. This involves a few fierce little crimps and a big pull to clip the chains.  Feeling a little tired I rested and then went for it. Missing the hold I was off, and one of those fierce crimps had taken it's toll, a flapper of skin being the result.

A little gutted by the flapper but super happy at getting 2 6c's, and coming pretty close to a 3rd, I'd had a mega day!  Things are looking really good for Spain and I can't wait for Wednesday.

I'm really enjoying Sport climbing at the moment and I hope it will transfer to my trad climbing. Knowing I can onsight/flash 6c routes gives me that ability to think 'I know I can technically climb british 5b/c moves (and higher) confidently.

Tremadog

So as promised some pictures from our trip to Tremadog.  Had originally planned to go Saturday but the forecast looked much better for Sunday - glad we waited as it was!

After a steady drive over, my estimation of 1.5 hours was totally wrong, we got a parking ticket from Eric's and headed up.  We decided that something well with in our grade would be the best option. Previous multi-pitches I'd done were swing leads. This is where climbers take it in turn to lead each pitch. This time I would be leading the whole thing, so a few new techniques were tried out. As the day progressed things became much smoother and we took about 20 mins a pitch which isn't too bad!  We climed Hail Bebe, a lovely little VDiff. 

Next to this is a VS called One Step in the Clouds. On reaching the 2nd pitch, and large grass track, I decided to climb a section of One Step as it looked much more fun!

Hannah seconded the section of One Step in the Clouds. This was much better than the dirt track that forms the actual pitch of the route.

Left: Hannah making her way to the last but one stance and another tree belay.  The dirt track/2nd pitch can be seen below. Right: Me enjoying the warming spring sunshine and view out towards the coast.

All the faffing was worth it on leaving the penultinate belay. The final pitch is a great big curving flake with some fantastic exposure; nothing but space to the bottom of the crag some 80m below!  

Relishing the exposure, not bad for VDiff!

We headed back down for some lunch and decided to call it a day as we needed to head back and time was getting on. Tremadog is class though and we'll be back soon. Eric's Cafe has a campsite which will be being made use of for sure. There are lots more routes to tick off there all of a top quality. Keep you eyes peeled for more photos and posts of upcoming trips!



Hobson Moor Quarry and Changing Attitudes

Headed over to Hobson Moor Quarry on Friday.  I've been a couple of times now and never been all that impressed. I think this has probably got more to do with it all being relatively hard when compared to what I was leading at the time.

No one else was at there when we arrived and I had a small tick list that I wanted to get done. I was again trying to keep in mind that, if I didn't get these routes done that it was still a good day as I'd been out again.  First up was Gideon, HVS 5a. Before telling Meirion, the guy I was climbing with, what I had in mind he'd mentioned he'd seconded the route before and didn't think much to it, certainly not the 2 stars it got in the guide book.  I carried on regardless as! I certainly felt a little nervous. It's odd because I know I'm more than physically capable of 5a moves, but I just haven't climbed that many.

It took me a while to figure out the bottom section, an off balance arête with all the good jams and holds on the opposite side of where you feel in balance. Then you get a decent rest in a corner. Above this a jamming crack.  A bomber friend protected the moves and with good footholds, it was all over. I really enjoyed the route and it felt well with in my limit.

Meirion then climbed Hanging slab (E1/E2 5b depending on which guidebook you look at). I had initially wanted to lead this route, but Meirion was pretty keen for it so I let him have it (it also looked pretty chossy at the top).  He topped out without any dramas and I seconded it. The crux move felt pretty tough, a high right foot and low jam with the right hand and pull up for a decent horizontal break in the rock. The top was as suspected, if it had been a little better I think this would be a super quality route.

I took my time deciding the next route, I really wanted to do another HVS or E1. The only other E1 worth doing, according to the guide book at least, was Tighe's Arête, E1 5a.


The arête is delicate and quite low in the grade. A semi-crucial Friend in the slot gets in the way a little.

I got a good wire in and on arriving at the pocket the description was correct, the friend did get in the way slightly. Luckily my fingerboard sessions seem to have paid some dividends as with the friend in the slot, I could still hold it as a 2 finger pocket.  A few more moves and it was all done.  It's a little run out at the top (hence E1) but felt fairly easy. I felt pretty pleased, two E1s in less than week, that's the most I've ever done.  I can hear people already, two's not very many, and I agree but it's better than anything before and hence progress!

Tighe's Arête E1 5a. The friend in the slot is the last piece of gear to the top, easy climbing remains a calm approach is required. (Image from UKClimbing user Architectonic). 

Meirion then climbed Bring Me Sunshine, E2 5c, which I did a few years ago.  It felt a hell of lot easier this time than when I lead it. Obviously having a rope above you always helps, but I'm inclined to believe it's a changing mindset. I'm starting to get some confidence in my own ability which means I'm more realxed while climbing and not gripping on for dear life with every move. This then allows me to enjoy the climbing as opposed to fearing it, again making me more relaxed. This is a positive feedback


To finish off I got on Gideonite, HVS 5a. I don't think this route has seen more attention of late, it was little green and had quite a few cobwebs. After the previous routes a felt pretty confident. It didn't take me long before I was topping out and bringing up Meirion. The outcome of the day for me was that I can probably climb 5b/c moves and most HVS's, so why haven't I?

I think it's because I was scared of not being able to, of failing at a route. The odd thing about that is by continually focusing on failure then this became the most likely outcome (You can't think about what you don't want to think about without thinking about it!). So by thinking to myself, I really don't want to fail, the first thing I think about is failure (don't think about a big pink elephant - I bet a picture of a big pink elephant just popped in to your head?).

Instead, by changing my self talk to: I want to succeed, I can succeed, I will succeed,  then this becomes the more probable outcome. There is, of course, no point in doing this just at the bottom of a route - these changes must take place over time. By listening to our self talk and attempting to change it, you no longer have to worry actively thinking it. By having a positive outlook, it gives me an increased mental capacity to think actively about my climbing.

This may seem at odds with the key to success is failure but it isn't. Just because we're failing doesn't mean we won't succeed.  But being afraid of failure breeds failure. We are so scared of failing that we decide to not bother trying. The number of times I used to say, oh I'm happy just leading VS (sound familiar?) is truly astounding.  I'm not though, I want to be able to climb hard trad routes (and sport routes and boulder problems and alpine faces....the list goes on!). By putting into practice a few mental strategies, by getting out and by not being afraid of failure I've achieved more in the past month than I have in about 6 years of climbing. I've already lead half the number routes I did last year and my average grade has already gone up 1 bracket (At this rate I'll be onsighting E10 by next year; a slightly tenuous extrapolation I think). One thing's for sure: It's going to be an interesting year!

Also went out to Tremadog for the first time yesterday with Hannah. Was a great day and I'm going to post about it this evening with some pictures.