Ben had asked if I fancied the lakes; he and Nathan were keen, so I needed to find a partner. Originally Hannah was coming, but with exams just round the corner she chose to give it a miss. With a few others keen, I gave Andy a shout and the top and tail of it was yes - he was psyched for it!
As Hannah had an interview on the Thursday in Birmingham, we could kill a few birds with one stone and see a few people and give Andy a lift. An early finish at work, car packed and Hannah dropped off at home, we headed to Trowbarrow.
After me, and others, raving about how good Jean Jeaine was Andy decided that Jean Jeaine was the order of the day. Gearing up the tension was obvious. Standing at the bottom of this 25m route, the top certainly feels much further than that and it's VS 4c all the way.
Andy started the route tentatively. Having not been on the sharp end for a while, it was going to be a challenge, but he stepped up to the mark. After a few metres he started to flow and things were going nicely. Up to the first crux and, as can be the case on limestone, most of Andy's gear was suspect to say the least. Also never having climbed on limestone, some might say that the odds were stacked against him. He wasn't having any of it and cruised the first crux.
Now with a few metres between him and his last piece of gear, a wide crack offers some bomber gear. Fiddling in the largest Hex he had, it dropped down the and lodged itself deep in the crack. After trying for about 10 minutes to retrieve it, he had to carry on. (It took me a good 30 minutes to retrieve the Hex when I seconded the route).
At about two thirds height, the crack widens and this forms the next crux. Again, after a good deal of puffing, panting and a few noises, it was done. At this point I kept telling Andy that the rest was easy, in a few moves there were jugs, in fact knowing that the next jug was the last hold - still some 5 or 6 metres away. Although the final few meters have good holds, the crack curves to the right, continually making you feel off balance. With a cam in his mouth and ever increasing amounts of forearm pump Andy certainly followed the old climbing adage: IF IN DOUBT, RUN IT OUT. Getting further and further away from his last gear, he placed the cam clipped it and just kept going; knowing all the time that the cam was crap. He hit the last hold, pulled on to the top and was one satisfied customer! Not a bad start to the weekend at all!
We stopped off at the pub on way up to Borrowdale (and the tesco for supplies, mainly beer!) for a celebratory pint. Reaching the campsite at about 10, and after a few beers in the car, the prospect of putting the tent up wasn't one which we relished so we slept in the car. Surprisingly a good nights sleep was had.
After a bit of faffing the following day we headed to Shepard's Crag. The plan was to get warmed up on Little Chamonix, a classic VD which is a must for any climber of any level! Unfortunately our relaxed start meant a rather large cue so we carried on down to the crag to find something free. Stopping a few meters to the left I picked out Fishers Folly, a 2 pitch VS 4c. Not wanting to faff with setting up belays a linked both pitches. The first pitch consists of a corner up to a large large block, with some interesting moves. The second is a traverse out right for about 5 m and then a pull over a small overhang. This is a great little climb, giving interesting climbing throughout on good holds. Andy seconded, the traverse certainly feeling the harder of the two pitches (they always do when you start thinking about the swing).
With the cue still as big for Little Cham, I decided to get on something else. Also not want to walk very far I thought I'd jump on route next to Fishers, M.G.C., E2 5c.
A superb line following the obvious crack over two bulges. Committing moves are needed for the crux moves (easier for the tall). Where the crack stops, mantle onto a ledge for a welcome arm rest before finishing up the pleasanly easing upper slab.
M.G.C, E2 5c. (Image taken by UKC user Rob Gibson)
After that we finally got on Little chamonix. With a cue at the first belay (a few beginners were having issues) we had to sit about for a bit but there are worse places to sit that's for sure. We linked the next 3 pitches together to save time. Andy lead the first and me the next. I skipped the bum shuffle across the block, instead opting for a more elegant (if possibly harder) step around it. A great rout either way and a nice way to finish the day.
On Sunday we headed up to Raven crag with Corvus in mind. A 3 star, 7 pitch (we did it in 4) Diff. I'd seen pictures of the final pitch which involves a hand traverse in a great situation. Despite the weather initially looking a bit suspect, it cleared up and we had an awesome day taking it easy enjoying the view!
The hand traverse pitch on Corvus. A great route and certainly worth it for this pitch alone! (Image taken by Russell Lovett
The Monday was less productive as the weather crapped out on us but an awesome weekend for sure. With work being full on at the moment it's good to be getting out and still feeling strong despite not training properly. Hopefully I'll be back on the training soon!
Hope you all had a good bank holiday weekend too!
P.S. The title of this blog relates to the fact Andy had never been to the lakes!
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