Training is going well, although this endurance phase is pretty boring, never really sure if your achieving much as your not at your limit, or that's the way it feels. This is no doubt due to being at about 50% pump for the whole session. When you train power endurance, or strength, you know your pushing it as you keep falling off. at the moment the whole point is not to fall off but to get loads of mileage. I think I'm getting it about right though.
There is a really interesting video on UKC at the moment by Tyler Stableford about Steve House, an american Alpinist who has put up some very hard and extreme routes including a recent climb on the Central Pillar of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. He has also written a book Beyound the Mountain. Another one for the reading list I think. Check out the review here
Friday 29 June 2012
Wednesday 27 June 2012
Training Cycle
After an enjoyable weekend (I forgot to add my previous post until this morning) in London it's time to get the training on the go again.
After a little bit of thought, and figuring out dates etc, I've decided that a meso-cycle will probably suit me best. Eric Horst talks about these in his book, Training for Climbing. In particular he talks about two modes, 4-3-2-1 or a 3-2-1 cycle.
The 4-3-2-1 cycle is usually used by climbers who are training properly for the first time and is used to introduce them to periodization. He suggest using a 3-2-1 cycle for climbers who have used periodization before. I've tried the 3-2-1 cycle before and have never really felt that any of the phases are long enough.
With that in mind I plan on doing a 3-3-3 cycle, broken down as such:
3 weeks Endurance, 3/4 session per week. This is then split into a two week endurance phase and a strength power phase.
3 weeks Power Endurance Phase, 3 session per week. This phase is designed such that I'll be operating near my maximum for most the session but still performing a high number of movements. This will allow me to build local forearm endurance the result being an increase capillary density and luminal diameter. This changes will enable me to keep climbing in a pumped state.
3 weeks Strength Phase (increase in power), 3 session per week. This phase is a lower volume but close to my maximum. I'll also be adding in the use of a finger board. I'll still be working the power endurance aspect but adding in the fingerboard as opposed to bouldering for example.
This should take me up to the end of August and a trip to Ceuse.
We had our first session yesterday and it went pretty well and am going again this evening. I've got to write down some clear goals again but I'll put these up once I've done them.
This will be the first time I've had such a detailed training plan so it will be very interesting to see how it works. I have a good feeling that it will be better than my previous attempts which have had some general structure but were quite fluid. This way I can really find out what my weaknesses are and see some clear improvement.
Rain, Rain, Go away!
Will we ever have a proper summer? It would appear not. With the weather looking pretty poor it's time to bite the bullet and get back indoors. I've been putting it off for a few weeks now but, with a planned trip to Ceuse in August with Joe and Hannah, the time has come to start suffering some pain again! I think this gives me about 8 weeks to get fit. I really want to be feeling super fit for this trip so, as much as I don't want, I need to sit down and put a proper training plan together. I think the overriding theme will be lots of climbing and lots of falling. Ceuse sports some well spaced bolts by all accounts so I want to be well prepared mentally for it; it's also long and the 'easy' routes aren't that easy! I'm looking forward to it though! This should also put me in good shape for the grit this year.
Previously, around that time of year, I haven't done much climbing or training so as the grit starts to come in to season again I'm usually not at my peak (have I ever been?), both physically and mentally. It's going to be interesting to get out and see what I can achieve on grit.
I've also received a copy of Extreme Alpinism: Climb Light, Fast, and High by Mark Twight. This is THE book to have on getting yourself in shape for alpine climbing. A cursory glance last night showed it has everything you need to be in the best physical and mental shape you need to be in to meet the demands of high level alpinism. It has whole section on physical training so I plan on incorporating some of it into my training regime as I think I could probably do with increasing my base level of fitness and endurance.
Although we've just had the summer solstice my mind is drifting towards the winter already. By putting together an effective training program each stage will build upon the last and it should be a very fruitful 6 months.
We're off to London this weekend to visit a friend, so have 4 hours to kill on the coach journey. A perfect opportunity to start putting together some training goals etc.
Enjoy your weekend folks!
Previously, around that time of year, I haven't done much climbing or training so as the grit starts to come in to season again I'm usually not at my peak (have I ever been?), both physically and mentally. It's going to be interesting to get out and see what I can achieve on grit.
I've also received a copy of Extreme Alpinism: Climb Light, Fast, and High by Mark Twight. This is THE book to have on getting yourself in shape for alpine climbing. A cursory glance last night showed it has everything you need to be in the best physical and mental shape you need to be in to meet the demands of high level alpinism. It has whole section on physical training so I plan on incorporating some of it into my training regime as I think I could probably do with increasing my base level of fitness and endurance.
Although we've just had the summer solstice my mind is drifting towards the winter already. By putting together an effective training program each stage will build upon the last and it should be a very fruitful 6 months.
We're off to London this weekend to visit a friend, so have 4 hours to kill on the coach journey. A perfect opportunity to start putting together some training goals etc.
Enjoy your weekend folks!
Tuesday 12 June 2012
Must Try Harder...Back to The Training Board
So I've finally got round to writing an update. It's been a while as I've lost a little momentum with work so had to concentrate on that. There have been some ups and downs recently but I'm certainly happier with my climbing in general, it's moving forward albeit at a rather slowed pace (again).
The last time I posted I'd been to the lakes and had a good weekend; ticking MGC being the highlight. A few weeks ago myself and Joe headed to Kilnsey. Unfortunately, in terms of climbing prospects at least, I had been out the night before. Although I didn't have too much to drink I didn't get to bed until 3. Picking up Joe at 8 was a real struggle but I managed it, just about. Luckily Joe had been out the previous night so he wasn't feeling his best either.
Kilnsey is another limestone crag in Yorkshire and is appears less intimidating than Malham in scale. Although the huge roof at it's top looks pretty damn intimidating! It also breeds a different style of climbing. Malham (WHEY!!!!) is all about sidepulls and using the foot holds to figure out a sequence. Kilnsey on the other hand has reasonable foot holds, fewer sidepulls but very powerful moves. I though this would suit my style - how wrong can 1 man be? Well pretty damn wrong. After warming up (and fannying about going to use the toilet in the village) we got on Open road (6c). Joe put the draws in and I tied in - that was about as sucessful as the day got! I don't very often get freaked out by climbing, I lack confidence in doing the moves, but not freaked out. This was one of those days - pulling on draws, shouting take, worrying about if my knot was safe - just about everything that I could possibly worry about.
Enter my mental strategies which I've spoken about. It was OK because I was out, enjoying myself and climbing a certain grade isn't the aim of the game.
We stripped the route and moved on. I decided I'd put the draws into Direct flight (7a+) and work this instead. Clip sticking my way up the route (use a device to clip yourself and the rope into the bolts from the bolt below) I got to the anchors and felt a little better. I still didn't have the sequence dialled so I was going to keep top roping it. On my second go working the route I could barely get off the ground and despite being on a top rope felt pretty spooked out again. I stripped the route and decided to call it a day. Joe hadn't faired much better all day (too much meat and beer at a BBQ the day before) so we sacked it off and went to get some organic ice-cream. This was the best tick of the day!
I felt pretty dejected by it all but on reflection it was perhaps a likely outcome. I hadn't climbed at the venue before and I was tired and hunger over. This probably wouldn't have been such a problem had I not been climbing at what is extensible my current limit. I've also been pretty slack on the training front, not wanting to waste money on climbing indoors when it could be used to get outside! Excuses aside I still felt pretty down beat about my climbing.
Although I keep saying failure is the key to success, it should be because it's at my limit not because I'm tired and hungover. Keeping yourself accountable requires you to be objective about the reasons why we didn't succeed, not making up excuses for why we are allowed to fail!
That was most definitely the low point of the last few weeks. It can be hard to use failures as motivation to improve of keep pushing yourself. Why not just give up, that way we don't have to feel the hardship of not achieving. This attitude is short-sighted, giving up leads to long term unhappiness as we never truly realise (or even get close to) our full potential. With a renewed focus to keep getting out on the real rock and varying the styles of climbing the last few weeks have been better.
A trip to North Wales with Joe and Jon for the weekend came next. With some suspect looking weather we decided to head to Lower Pen Trywn (LPT as it's affectionately known). While waiting for the tide to head out Jon bouldered at the Parisella's cave while me and Joe headed to Upper Pen Trywn to try Axel Attack (7a), With Joe almost getting the onsight. I on the other hand could barely get off the ground. I felt totally weak and drained so I left Joe to it and just belayed. Heading down to LPT we got on what was supposed to be a 2 star 6b Kaffe Fasset. After some scary climbing (grass holds are always cool!) I clipped the chains and lowered off. Joe had a similar experience; concluding that this Kaffe Fasset was definitely monotone brown! Finishing off with under the board walk (6c) and top roping Face Race (7a+). The climbing at LPT is different again and although I was initially under whelmed, I'm quite keen to go back.
Heading over to Llanberis the plan was to go bouldering. We had our breakfast in the pass, parking up and cooking it just next to the roadside boulders is a pretty sweet way to start the day! The outcome of a few hours walking and all of about 4 problems is that I'm not very strong at the moment, anything above V4 feels pretty damn hard. We sacked it off and headed over to the slate and get on gnat attack (E1 5b). This route is awesome and I can't recommend it enough! The description is
"A delicate line up the right hand edge of the slab. Climb carefully to a break then traverse rightwards to the first bolt. Thin moves (harder for the short) lead up to the second bolt, followed by an easier run-out to the top."
 |
| Kilnsey Crag in the morning light, check out that roof! |
Kilnsey is another limestone crag in Yorkshire and is appears less intimidating than Malham in scale. Although the huge roof at it's top looks pretty damn intimidating! It also breeds a different style of climbing. Malham (WHEY!!!!) is all about sidepulls and using the foot holds to figure out a sequence. Kilnsey on the other hand has reasonable foot holds, fewer sidepulls but very powerful moves. I though this would suit my style - how wrong can 1 man be? Well pretty damn wrong. After warming up (and fannying about going to use the toilet in the village) we got on Open road (6c). Joe put the draws in and I tied in - that was about as sucessful as the day got! I don't very often get freaked out by climbing, I lack confidence in doing the moves, but not freaked out. This was one of those days - pulling on draws, shouting take, worrying about if my knot was safe - just about everything that I could possibly worry about.
Enter my mental strategies which I've spoken about. It was OK because I was out, enjoying myself and climbing a certain grade isn't the aim of the game.
We stripped the route and moved on. I decided I'd put the draws into Direct flight (7a+) and work this instead. Clip sticking my way up the route (use a device to clip yourself and the rope into the bolts from the bolt below) I got to the anchors and felt a little better. I still didn't have the sequence dialled so I was going to keep top roping it. On my second go working the route I could barely get off the ground and despite being on a top rope felt pretty spooked out again. I stripped the route and decided to call it a day. Joe hadn't faired much better all day (too much meat and beer at a BBQ the day before) so we sacked it off and went to get some organic ice-cream. This was the best tick of the day!
I felt pretty dejected by it all but on reflection it was perhaps a likely outcome. I hadn't climbed at the venue before and I was tired and hunger over. This probably wouldn't have been such a problem had I not been climbing at what is extensible my current limit. I've also been pretty slack on the training front, not wanting to waste money on climbing indoors when it could be used to get outside! Excuses aside I still felt pretty down beat about my climbing.
Although I keep saying failure is the key to success, it should be because it's at my limit not because I'm tired and hungover. Keeping yourself accountable requires you to be objective about the reasons why we didn't succeed, not making up excuses for why we are allowed to fail!
That was most definitely the low point of the last few weeks. It can be hard to use failures as motivation to improve of keep pushing yourself. Why not just give up, that way we don't have to feel the hardship of not achieving. This attitude is short-sighted, giving up leads to long term unhappiness as we never truly realise (or even get close to) our full potential. With a renewed focus to keep getting out on the real rock and varying the styles of climbing the last few weeks have been better.
A trip to North Wales with Joe and Jon for the weekend came next. With some suspect looking weather we decided to head to Lower Pen Trywn (LPT as it's affectionately known). While waiting for the tide to head out Jon bouldered at the Parisella's cave while me and Joe headed to Upper Pen Trywn to try Axel Attack (7a), With Joe almost getting the onsight. I on the other hand could barely get off the ground. I felt totally weak and drained so I left Joe to it and just belayed. Heading down to LPT we got on what was supposed to be a 2 star 6b Kaffe Fasset. After some scary climbing (grass holds are always cool!) I clipped the chains and lowered off. Joe had a similar experience; concluding that this Kaffe Fasset was definitely monotone brown! Finishing off with under the board walk (6c) and top roping Face Race (7a+). The climbing at LPT is different again and although I was initially under whelmed, I'm quite keen to go back.
Heading over to Llanberis the plan was to go bouldering. We had our breakfast in the pass, parking up and cooking it just next to the roadside boulders is a pretty sweet way to start the day! The outcome of a few hours walking and all of about 4 problems is that I'm not very strong at the moment, anything above V4 feels pretty damn hard. We sacked it off and headed over to the slate and get on gnat attack (E1 5b). This route is awesome and I can't recommend it enough! The description is
"A delicate line up the right hand edge of the slab. Climb carefully to a break then traverse rightwards to the first bolt. Thin moves (harder for the short) lead up to the second bolt, followed by an easier run-out to the top."
 |
| Gnat Attack, E1 5b, Bus Stop Quarry Gwynedd. The 3 red dots show the two bolts and the lower off - it's a little run out (photo taken from Life at the End of a Rope Blog). |
I really enjoyed climbing it and felt pretty steady on it. The two run out sections are easy but it could be easy to get spooked out and drop it. I didn't realise just how run out it was until I was lowering off, thanks Jon for pointing me at it!
With work not going too well I had to ease off the climbing during the week and concentrate on work. I was pretty worried that this would really affect my climbing but a weekend in the lakes quelled that fear to some extent. Leading another E1 at Shepherd's Crag in the lakes. We headed up to Borrowdale for the jubilee weekend: myself, Hannah, Jen, Matt, Andy and Daz. Due to lack of signal we met up with Andy, Daz and Matt on the Saturday.
As my sister, Jen, had never been climbing before we started out at Shepherd's Crag on some easy angled slabs which I hadn't done before either on the Thursday. After she'd had a taste I had a go at Conclusion (E1 5b). The lower section is the crux, after which the climbing eases to about HVS. Hannah seconded the route clean with some interesting Bum Shuffle technique to get over the first roof.
We headed up to the Napes to do needle ridge to give my sister an idea of what a full mountain day is like. After being a apprehensive due to some narrow approach paths she cruised it, enjoying the exposure and making easy work of the climbing. The decent from the top of Napes crag, appropriately named Great Hell Gate, is rather interesting and my sister found it..well..less enjoyable than the climbing. Once we got down we headed to Keswick for some Pub grub and well earned pint!
And that's about it. With work busy at the moment I'm finding it hard to fit in training 3 times a week as well as going out, so I've prioritised getting out at least once a week to keep my hand in. This should, at the very least, keep me shape. The plan is to consolidate the grades of E1/HVS and 6c-7a. Then once work eases off hit the training hard again. With a trip to Ceuse on the horizon I'm super keen to get back to it, despite it meaning I have to spend more time indoors!
The last few weeks has also shown me that getting pissed and not enough sleep the night before you go climbing really doesn't help, so why do I do it? Make a choice about what you really want and stick to it! After the couple of E1s I've lead this year, with some time in between them, I finally feel like I've broken the infamous E barrier. Now climbing E5 doesn't seem like the insurmountable task it did before. I still need to actually get on some; had a play on White Wall in the Peak but that's it. Fingers crossed for some decent weather again! I want to get back on the training though because I'm not feeling as fit or as strong as I did after Spain it just making it part of my routine again - watch this space!
Wednesday 6 June 2012
Crack Addict
So after what feels like an age I've finally gotten round to writing a blog update. Luckily for you this isn't it. I will post it very soon though so watch this space!
For those of you out there that would like to improve your climbing (don't we all?) then check out this series of videos from Wild Country and the crack climbing masters Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, A.K.A The Wide Boyz. For those who don't have a crack habit then you should get one, it's very addictive and great fun! If anyone can name all the peak district cracks they're on then I'll buy you a pint - answers on a comment.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 1 - Finger Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 2 - Hand Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 3 - Fist Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 4 - Offwidth Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Crack School Episode 5 - Gear and Gear Placement - by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 6 - Taping - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 1 - Finger Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 2 - Hand Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 3 - Fist Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 4 - Offwidth Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Crack School Episode 5 - Gear and Gear Placement - by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
Wild Country Crack School - Episode 6 - Taping - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.
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