After a little bit of thought, and figuring out dates etc, I've decided that a meso-cycle will probably suit me best. Eric Horst talks about these in his book, Training for Climbing. In particular he talks about two modes, 4-3-2-1 or a 3-2-1 cycle.
The 4-3-2-1 cycle is usually used by climbers who are training properly for the first time and is used to introduce them to periodization. He suggest using a 3-2-1 cycle for climbers who have used periodization before. I've tried the 3-2-1 cycle before and have never really felt that any of the phases are long enough.
With that in mind I plan on doing a 3-3-3 cycle, broken down as such:
3 weeks Endurance, 3/4 session per week. This is then split into a two week endurance phase and a strength power phase.
3 weeks Power Endurance Phase, 3 session per week. This phase is designed such that I'll be operating near my maximum for most the session but still performing a high number of movements. This will allow me to build local forearm endurance the result being an increase capillary density and luminal diameter. This changes will enable me to keep climbing in a pumped state.
3 weeks Strength Phase (increase in power), 3 session per week. This phase is a lower volume but close to my maximum. I'll also be adding in the use of a finger board. I'll still be working the power endurance aspect but adding in the fingerboard as opposed to bouldering for example.
This should take me up to the end of August and a trip to Ceuse.
We had our first session yesterday and it went pretty well and am going again this evening. I've got to write down some clear goals again but I'll put these up once I've done them.
This will be the first time I've had such a detailed training plan so it will be very interesting to see how it works. I have a good feeling that it will be better than my previous attempts which have had some general structure but were quite fluid. This way I can really find out what my weaknesses are and see some clear improvement.
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