After reading a few motivation quotes, I thought I would come up with my own! The reason for writing this post is that I just watched a video which I saw a while back now and it got me thinking about what inspires us to want to improve and become more successful, both in terms of climbing and life in general, and how things can change very rapidly when something comes along which changes our physical capability to do so.
Either way, Paul Pritchard is a very inspirational person! We should stop making excuses about why we can't do something and think up of the reasons why we want to do it, and if we can't come up with any good reasons we probably shouldn't be doing it!
Friday 18 May 2012
Thursday 10 May 2012
Lakeland Cherry Popping
With a bank Holiday weekend available, climbing was most certainly on the cards!
Ben had asked if I fancied the lakes; he and Nathan were keen, so I needed to find a partner. Originally Hannah was coming, but with exams just round the corner she chose to give it a miss. With a few others keen, I gave Andy a shout and the top and tail of it was yes - he was psyched for it!
As Hannah had an interview on the Thursday in Birmingham, we could kill a few birds with one stone and see a few people and give Andy a lift. An early finish at work, car packed and Hannah dropped off at home, we headed to Trowbarrow.
After me, and others, raving about how good Jean Jeaine was Andy decided that Jean Jeaine was the order of the day. Gearing up the tension was obvious. Standing at the bottom of this 25m route, the top certainly feels much further than that and it's VS 4c all the way.
Andy started the route tentatively. Having not been on the sharp end for a while, it was going to be a challenge, but he stepped up to the mark. After a few metres he started to flow and things were going nicely. Up to the first crux and, as can be the case on limestone, most of Andy's gear was suspect to say the least. Also never having climbed on limestone, some might say that the odds were stacked against him. He wasn't having any of it and cruised the first crux.
Now with a few metres between him and his last piece of gear, a wide crack offers some bomber gear. Fiddling in the largest Hex he had, it dropped down the and lodged itself deep in the crack. After trying for about 10 minutes to retrieve it, he had to carry on. (It took me a good 30 minutes to retrieve the Hex when I seconded the route).
At about two thirds height, the crack widens and this forms the next crux. Again, after a good deal of puffing, panting and a few noises, it was done. At this point I kept telling Andy that the rest was easy, in a few moves there were jugs, in fact knowing that the next jug was the last hold - still some 5 or 6 metres away. Although the final few meters have good holds, the crack curves to the right, continually making you feel off balance. With a cam in his mouth and ever increasing amounts of forearm pump Andy certainly followed the old climbing adage: IF IN DOUBT, RUN IT OUT. Getting further and further away from his last gear, he placed the cam clipped it and just kept going; knowing all the time that the cam was crap. He hit the last hold, pulled on to the top and was one satisfied customer! Not a bad start to the weekend at all!
We stopped off at the pub on way up to Borrowdale (and the tesco for supplies, mainly beer!) for a celebratory pint. Reaching the campsite at about 10, and after a few beers in the car, the prospect of putting the tent up wasn't one which we relished so we slept in the car. Surprisingly a good nights sleep was had.
After a bit of faffing the following day we headed to Shepard's Crag. The plan was to get warmed up on Little Chamonix, a classic VD which is a must for any climber of any level! Unfortunately our relaxed start meant a rather large cue so we carried on down to the crag to find something free. Stopping a few meters to the left I picked out Fishers Folly, a 2 pitch VS 4c. Not wanting to faff with setting up belays a linked both pitches. The first pitch consists of a corner up to a large large block, with some interesting moves. The second is a traverse out right for about 5 m and then a pull over a small overhang. This is a great little climb, giving interesting climbing throughout on good holds. Andy seconded, the traverse certainly feeling the harder of the two pitches (they always do when you start thinking about the swing).
With the cue still as big for Little Cham, I decided to get on something else. Also not want to walk very far I thought I'd jump on route next to Fishers, M.G.C., E2 5c.
A superb line following the obvious crack over two bulges. Committing moves are needed for the crux moves (easier for the tall). Where the crack stops, mantle onto a ledge for a welcome arm rest before finishing up the pleasanly easing upper slab.
The C.C. guide I had said 'attracts many failures'. Well I'm not a failure so no worries for me - that was the thought going through my head, it was almost like a red rag to a bull. With bomber gear below both crux's it was a no brainer to not give it a whirl. After sussing the first crux (nearly came off the first time I tried it) I got to the jugs and shook out. Tried the next crux a few times, reversed until I decided what I was going to do, then went for it. A few hearty pulls and it was over. The upper section was easy and overall it felt ok.
After that we finally got on Little chamonix. With a cue at the first belay (a few beginners were having issues) we had to sit about for a bit but there are worse places to sit that's for sure. We linked the next 3 pitches together to save time. Andy lead the first and me the next. I skipped the bum shuffle across the block, instead opting for a more elegant (if possibly harder) step around it. A great rout either way and a nice way to finish the day.
On Sunday we headed up to Raven crag with Corvus in mind. A 3 star, 7 pitch (we did it in 4) Diff. I'd seen pictures of the final pitch which involves a hand traverse in a great situation. Despite the weather initially looking a bit suspect, it cleared up and we had an awesome day taking it easy enjoying the view!
The Monday was less productive as the weather crapped out on us but an awesome weekend for sure. With work being full on at the moment it's good to be getting out and still feeling strong despite not training properly. Hopefully I'll be back on the training soon!
Hope you all had a good bank holiday weekend too!
P.S. The title of this blog relates to the fact Andy had never been to the lakes!
Ben had asked if I fancied the lakes; he and Nathan were keen, so I needed to find a partner. Originally Hannah was coming, but with exams just round the corner she chose to give it a miss. With a few others keen, I gave Andy a shout and the top and tail of it was yes - he was psyched for it!
As Hannah had an interview on the Thursday in Birmingham, we could kill a few birds with one stone and see a few people and give Andy a lift. An early finish at work, car packed and Hannah dropped off at home, we headed to Trowbarrow.
After me, and others, raving about how good Jean Jeaine was Andy decided that Jean Jeaine was the order of the day. Gearing up the tension was obvious. Standing at the bottom of this 25m route, the top certainly feels much further than that and it's VS 4c all the way.
Andy started the route tentatively. Having not been on the sharp end for a while, it was going to be a challenge, but he stepped up to the mark. After a few metres he started to flow and things were going nicely. Up to the first crux and, as can be the case on limestone, most of Andy's gear was suspect to say the least. Also never having climbed on limestone, some might say that the odds were stacked against him. He wasn't having any of it and cruised the first crux.
Now with a few metres between him and his last piece of gear, a wide crack offers some bomber gear. Fiddling in the largest Hex he had, it dropped down the and lodged itself deep in the crack. After trying for about 10 minutes to retrieve it, he had to carry on. (It took me a good 30 minutes to retrieve the Hex when I seconded the route).
At about two thirds height, the crack widens and this forms the next crux. Again, after a good deal of puffing, panting and a few noises, it was done. At this point I kept telling Andy that the rest was easy, in a few moves there were jugs, in fact knowing that the next jug was the last hold - still some 5 or 6 metres away. Although the final few meters have good holds, the crack curves to the right, continually making you feel off balance. With a cam in his mouth and ever increasing amounts of forearm pump Andy certainly followed the old climbing adage: IF IN DOUBT, RUN IT OUT. Getting further and further away from his last gear, he placed the cam clipped it and just kept going; knowing all the time that the cam was crap. He hit the last hold, pulled on to the top and was one satisfied customer! Not a bad start to the weekend at all!
We stopped off at the pub on way up to Borrowdale (and the tesco for supplies, mainly beer!) for a celebratory pint. Reaching the campsite at about 10, and after a few beers in the car, the prospect of putting the tent up wasn't one which we relished so we slept in the car. Surprisingly a good nights sleep was had.
After a bit of faffing the following day we headed to Shepard's Crag. The plan was to get warmed up on Little Chamonix, a classic VD which is a must for any climber of any level! Unfortunately our relaxed start meant a rather large cue so we carried on down to the crag to find something free. Stopping a few meters to the left I picked out Fishers Folly, a 2 pitch VS 4c. Not wanting to faff with setting up belays a linked both pitches. The first pitch consists of a corner up to a large large block, with some interesting moves. The second is a traverse out right for about 5 m and then a pull over a small overhang. This is a great little climb, giving interesting climbing throughout on good holds. Andy seconded, the traverse certainly feeling the harder of the two pitches (they always do when you start thinking about the swing).
With the cue still as big for Little Cham, I decided to get on something else. Also not want to walk very far I thought I'd jump on route next to Fishers, M.G.C., E2 5c.
A superb line following the obvious crack over two bulges. Committing moves are needed for the crux moves (easier for the tall). Where the crack stops, mantle onto a ledge for a welcome arm rest before finishing up the pleasanly easing upper slab.
M.G.C, E2 5c. (Image taken by UKC user Rob Gibson)
After that we finally got on Little chamonix. With a cue at the first belay (a few beginners were having issues) we had to sit about for a bit but there are worse places to sit that's for sure. We linked the next 3 pitches together to save time. Andy lead the first and me the next. I skipped the bum shuffle across the block, instead opting for a more elegant (if possibly harder) step around it. A great rout either way and a nice way to finish the day.
On Sunday we headed up to Raven crag with Corvus in mind. A 3 star, 7 pitch (we did it in 4) Diff. I'd seen pictures of the final pitch which involves a hand traverse in a great situation. Despite the weather initially looking a bit suspect, it cleared up and we had an awesome day taking it easy enjoying the view!
The hand traverse pitch on Corvus. A great route and certainly worth it for this pitch alone! (Image taken by Russell Lovett
The Monday was less productive as the weather crapped out on us but an awesome weekend for sure. With work being full on at the moment it's good to be getting out and still feeling strong despite not training properly. Hopefully I'll be back on the training soon!
Hope you all had a good bank holiday weekend too!
P.S. The title of this blog relates to the fact Andy had never been to the lakes!
Tuesday 1 May 2012
Plastic pulling sucks!
After a week off it's time to get back on the training. This, unfortunately, involved going back indoors. After a weekend of dismal weather, we thought everywhere would either be wet or seeping so me and Joe headed to MCC.
I was a little apprehensive about climbing indoors again. I felt that after Spain I should be pretty fit and be able to cruise the 7a's, and possibly 7b's, in the centre. This wasn't the case, I fell off the 6c+ I tried. So the question is why? Well first of all I had to get used to clipping every half a metre again, this has the effect of stopping you every other move to hang on and clip. For a number of routes I just forgot to clip as I wasn't used to it. I don't want to get used to it either, having a bolt every half a metre doesn't really do much for mindset about falling and I was just getting used to it in Spain!
After 6 routes we called it a day. I'm going again this evening with Ste so we'll see how that goes. I've experienced similar before, having had time from the indoor environment and then when you return it feels hard, despite the fact you've been climbing harder outdoors. I see it as another challenge and after a few sessions I think I'll be used to again and be crushing 7a's and b's!
I've been given the all clear by the physio which is good news. The neurological problem I had has now disappeared, it was probably created as a by-product of an initial soft tissue problem. The way to keep free of the problem - lots of aggressive stretching! All this means is really pushing the stretches and holding them for at least 90s. This has the effect of getting my brain to disengage the muscle, allowing it to relax. I just need to chill out man! If your in the Manchester area and are suffering from climbing related injuries I cannot recommend SportMed enough, and in particular Rich. If your not then my advice is check to see if the physio has a history of dealing with climbing related problems. If they don't I would say find someone that does!
After a week off from climbing I'm really keen to get back to training. I'm going to re-evaluate my goals now that it's been a few months and see where I stand, hopefully I have made some progress. Although I don't think I've ticked many of my goals I think the mindset which I have is much more positive. I'm not getting too hooked on a certain grade or routes (Still want to do London Wall though!) just trying to have fun along the way.
Main things I want to concentrate on over the next 3 month period are
(1) Improve finger strength - my finger strength is feels pretty woeful at the moment. Now that my arms are not giving me grief I can add a bouldering session into my training which should help this. I'm also want to be more consistent with my fingerboard workouts. Jon is training pretty hard at the moment so I'm going to try and get some sessions in with him as he'll push me to keep pulling hard!
(2) Get outside - I really want to keep getting out on real rock. The number of climbs I've done (leading/redpoints) so far this year is more than I did all of last year. I think climbing outside is a key factor in improving, being able to read a sequence or spot footholds is much more important than whether I've done a 7a indoors.
(3) Consolidate E1/2 - after Spain where I either flashed or onsighted most 6bs I now have the confidence that climbing E1/2 is well with-in what I'm capable of. To do this though I need to get out and do some! I think you have to be careful in making a direct comparison between sport and trad grades (6b/+ = E3/4 according to rockfax), but I know I'm more than physically capable of it, and the mental side comes with practice also so again, get out there!
I'll get some more concrete goals written down soon and post them but those are the general areas that I want to improve. We're off to the lakes next weekend so it would be cool to tick an E1 but I'll be happy if the weather is good and I'm enjoying the climbing!
I was a little apprehensive about climbing indoors again. I felt that after Spain I should be pretty fit and be able to cruise the 7a's, and possibly 7b's, in the centre. This wasn't the case, I fell off the 6c+ I tried. So the question is why? Well first of all I had to get used to clipping every half a metre again, this has the effect of stopping you every other move to hang on and clip. For a number of routes I just forgot to clip as I wasn't used to it. I don't want to get used to it either, having a bolt every half a metre doesn't really do much for mindset about falling and I was just getting used to it in Spain!
After 6 routes we called it a day. I'm going again this evening with Ste so we'll see how that goes. I've experienced similar before, having had time from the indoor environment and then when you return it feels hard, despite the fact you've been climbing harder outdoors. I see it as another challenge and after a few sessions I think I'll be used to again and be crushing 7a's and b's!
I've been given the all clear by the physio which is good news. The neurological problem I had has now disappeared, it was probably created as a by-product of an initial soft tissue problem. The way to keep free of the problem - lots of aggressive stretching! All this means is really pushing the stretches and holding them for at least 90s. This has the effect of getting my brain to disengage the muscle, allowing it to relax. I just need to chill out man! If your in the Manchester area and are suffering from climbing related injuries I cannot recommend SportMed enough, and in particular Rich. If your not then my advice is check to see if the physio has a history of dealing with climbing related problems. If they don't I would say find someone that does!
After a week off from climbing I'm really keen to get back to training. I'm going to re-evaluate my goals now that it's been a few months and see where I stand, hopefully I have made some progress. Although I don't think I've ticked many of my goals I think the mindset which I have is much more positive. I'm not getting too hooked on a certain grade or routes (Still want to do London Wall though!) just trying to have fun along the way.
Main things I want to concentrate on over the next 3 month period are
(1) Improve finger strength - my finger strength is feels pretty woeful at the moment. Now that my arms are not giving me grief I can add a bouldering session into my training which should help this. I'm also want to be more consistent with my fingerboard workouts. Jon is training pretty hard at the moment so I'm going to try and get some sessions in with him as he'll push me to keep pulling hard!
(2) Get outside - I really want to keep getting out on real rock. The number of climbs I've done (leading/redpoints) so far this year is more than I did all of last year. I think climbing outside is a key factor in improving, being able to read a sequence or spot footholds is much more important than whether I've done a 7a indoors.
(3) Consolidate E1/2 - after Spain where I either flashed or onsighted most 6bs I now have the confidence that climbing E1/2 is well with-in what I'm capable of. To do this though I need to get out and do some! I think you have to be careful in making a direct comparison between sport and trad grades (6b/+ = E3/4 according to rockfax), but I know I'm more than physically capable of it, and the mental side comes with practice also so again, get out there!
I'll get some more concrete goals written down soon and post them but those are the general areas that I want to improve. We're off to the lakes next weekend so it would be cool to tick an E1 but I'll be happy if the weather is good and I'm enjoying the climbing!
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