Despite Tuesday's dismal forecast I managed to get out and get some climbing in. Headed over to New Mills Torr after work with a few things in mind. Some of the crag is under a viaduct so stays dry most of the time. It was pretty dry when I arrived and things looked positive, the Sun even came out! That's about as far as it got though.
I warmed up on a couple of routes I'd done before. Next up was the ever dry Viaduct Wall, E2 5b. I've tried this route a few times before, with the crux being a precarious mantle. Trying it about 10 times, I couldn't commit to making the move. Having no one to spot me on to the mat was pretty unnerving and after about half an hour of attempts I decided to call it a day and try something else.
There are a few traverses at New Mills, ranging from V1 to V7. Again, I'd tried a few of these before but not really put much effort in. I decided to try the low girdle, which goes at about V6. The start is pretty hard, going from a good flake into to wide pinch and some really small foot holds. I've never been able to do these moves before, not even in isolation. After about half an hour I could do each move in isolation but linking them feels right at my limit. I feel much stronger compared to last time I tried the moves, but it will probably take a couple of sessions to get the moves wired.
After about 3 hours I decided to call it a day, and headed back home. I felt kind of disheartened by not getting Viaduct wall, but I knew the reasons why. I just couldn't commit to the crux moves without someone spotting me. If you don't fall lots on pads it can feel very alien the first time you try, and it feels very high despite it being less than the height of average indoor bouldering wall! In order to have the confidence to climb at your limit above pads (or one in this case) it's important to do it on a regular basis so it becomes comfortable. It does highlight an area of weakness with my trad climbing though, commitment! Despite knowing I can make make the moves on E1/E2 and E3, I still find it tough to commit to them. I know I have the strength and power to make the moves but I start to get scared. This probably comes down to a fear of falling on gear so I better start falling on gear! I've got a post ready on this so I'll put it up when back from Spain.
Ste was keen for a routing session at MCC on Wednesday. After not having a training session for at least a week, nearly 2, I was a little apprehensive as to what I was going to achieve. We decided to do a pyramid session of 10 routes ( actually did 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6a). I was certainly pleased with the session, I hadn't lost any gains and I sent a 6c (felt pretty easy) which I'd previously really struggled on. With Spain in mind, and my goal of 5 7a's.
Thursday and time for a battering at the physio. Some more massaging out the knots and traction left me feeling a little sore. I was given some exercises to allow the nerve to move more easily. These are certainly helping. With the weather looking good, I gave Joe a call to check if he fancied getting out. As always he was keen! We headed over to Castle Inn Quarry, just off the A55, for some bolt clipping. Castle Inn Quarry has got to be one of the easiest places in the UK to climb from (don't drive down the footpath though, even though that's what the guidebook describes I'm sure!). The crag forms the wall of the car park, you could belay from your boot if you wished.
With a good selection of routes, we warmed up on route 1 (5+), then route 2(6a). Next were 3 6c routes. I had put the draws in the two warm ups and, encouraged by Joe, put the draws in this route. It didn't occur to me until later that this would be my hardest sport onsight grade. The lower section is fairly straight forward, the first two bolts being clipped stood on really good ledges. After a little wobble on the crux moves, telling Joe I was coming off, I clipped the chains. Joe put the draws in the next two routes, The Cakewalk and Cakewalk Direct. Flashing The Cakewalk I was feeling really good and enjoying the climbing. The final route of the day, Cakewalk Direct, went pretty well with crux done and a little roof to finish. This involves a few fierce little crimps and a big pull to clip the chains. Feeling a little tired I rested and then went for it. Missing the hold I was off, and one of those fierce crimps had taken it's toll, a flapper of skin being the result.
A little gutted by the flapper but super happy at getting 2 6c's, and coming pretty close to a 3rd, I'd had a mega day! Things are looking really good for Spain and I can't wait for Wednesday.
I'm really enjoying Sport climbing at the moment and I hope it will transfer to my trad climbing. Knowing I can onsight/flash 6c routes gives me that ability to think 'I know I can technically climb british 5b/c moves (and higher) confidently.
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