No one else was at there when we arrived and I had a small tick list that I wanted to get done. I was again trying to keep in mind that, if I didn't get these routes done that it was still a good day as I'd been out again. First up was Gideon, HVS 5a. Before telling Meirion, the guy I was climbing with, what I had in mind he'd mentioned he'd seconded the route before and didn't think much to it, certainly not the 2 stars it got in the guide book. I carried on regardless as! I certainly felt a little nervous. It's odd because I know I'm more than physically capable of 5a moves, but I just haven't climbed that many.
It took me a while to figure out the bottom section, an off balance arête with all the good jams and holds on the opposite side of where you feel in balance. Then you get a decent rest in a corner. Above this a jamming crack. A bomber friend protected the moves and with good footholds, it was all over. I really enjoyed the route and it felt well with in my limit.
Meirion then climbed Hanging slab (E1/E2 5b depending on which guidebook you look at). I had initially wanted to lead this route, but Meirion was pretty keen for it so I let him have it (it also looked pretty chossy at the top). He topped out without any dramas and I seconded it. The crux move felt pretty tough, a high right foot and low jam with the right hand and pull up for a decent horizontal break in the rock. The top was as suspected, if it had been a little better I think this would be a super quality route.
I took my time deciding the next route, I really wanted to do another HVS or E1. The only other E1 worth doing, according to the guide book at least, was Tighe's Arête, E1 5a.
The arête is delicate and quite low in the grade. A semi-crucial Friend in the slot gets in the way a little.
I got a good wire in and on arriving at the pocket the description was correct, the friend did get in the way slightly. Luckily my fingerboard sessions seem to have paid some dividends as with the friend in the slot, I could still hold it as a 2 finger pocket. A few more moves and it was all done. It's a little run out at the top (hence E1) but felt fairly easy. I felt pretty pleased, two E1s in less than week, that's the most I've ever done. I can hear people already, two's not very many, and I agree but it's better than anything before and hence progress!
Tighe's Arête E1 5a. The friend in the slot is the last piece of gear to the top, easy climbing remains a calm approach is required. (Image from UKClimbing user Architectonic).
To finish off I got on Gideonite, HVS 5a. I don't think this route has seen more attention of late, it was little green and had quite a few cobwebs. After the previous routes a felt pretty confident. It didn't take me long before I was topping out and bringing up Meirion. The outcome of the day for me was that I can probably climb 5b/c moves and most HVS's, so why haven't I?
I think it's because I was scared of not being able to, of failing at a route. The odd thing about that is by continually focusing on failure then this became the most likely outcome (You can't think about what you don't want to think about without thinking about it!). So by thinking to myself, I really don't want to fail, the first thing I think about is failure (don't think about a big pink elephant - I bet a picture of a big pink elephant just popped in to your head?).
Instead, by changing my self talk to: I want to succeed, I can succeed, I will succeed, then this becomes the more probable outcome. There is, of course, no point in doing this just at the bottom of a route - these changes must take place over time. By listening to our self talk and attempting to change it, you no longer have to worry actively thinking it. By having a positive outlook, it gives me an increased mental capacity to think actively about my climbing.
This may seem at odds with the key to success is failure but it isn't. Just because we're failing doesn't mean we won't succeed. But being afraid of failure breeds failure. We are so scared of failing that we decide to not bother trying. The number of times I used to say, oh I'm happy just leading VS (sound familiar?) is truly astounding. I'm not though, I want to be able to climb hard trad routes (and sport routes and boulder problems and alpine faces....the list goes on!). By putting into practice a few mental strategies, by getting out and by not being afraid of failure I've achieved more in the past month than I have in about 6 years of climbing. I've already lead half the number routes I did last year and my average grade has already gone up 1 bracket (At this rate I'll be onsighting E10 by next year; a slightly tenuous extrapolation I think). One thing's for sure: It's going to be an interesting year!
Also went out to Tremadog for the first time yesterday with Hannah. Was a great day and I'm going to post about it this evening with some pictures.
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