4 week goals

Just finished my first board session. First off man are my fingers weak! And that's the reason why I want to get back to it. Now is the perfect opportunity.

I'm following the beastmaker boys beginner workout (aimed at climbers up to font 6c/V5). This consists of a 15 min warm up of your choice followed by sets of 7sec hangs/3sec rest for 1 min. 3 min rest and repeat up to 3 times. Holds are 4 finger open, 3 finger pocket and 35 deg. sloper.

I managed it twice through, before my form started to really flag so called it a day at that point. That's one thing I've learnt over the last 12 months away from this training, that having good form is better than being able to do more low quality reps. By stopping before you reach absolute failure you recover quicker, which means you can train more often, in turn helping us get to our goals quicker. Maybe more on that at a later date, as initially it seemed like a strategy that wouldn't produce results but it has, well for me anyway.

So my goals are this for the next 4 weeks:

(1) Focus on regaining some finger strength using the above plan.  Follow this for 4 weeks with review at the end of each week and adjust accordingly.

(2) During weekly climbing session get lots of mileage in and stick to the easy climbs. Basically start to learn to climb again, focus on not over gripping, clipping comfortable position and being as efficient as possible. Fall practice every session and ENJOY myself.

(3) Isolation exercises to maintain a proportioned and balanced body.  It would be a shame to have spent a long time balancing out my body to only go and ruin it by not doing just a few exercises after each board session to maintain it.  I'll be alternating between a 5 rep/2-3 min rest and 21 rep/30-60s rest schemes as I want to build power and endurance but maintain size (no hypertrophy).

I haven't decided what kind of progression I will add in as I have no idea what kind of time frame I'm looking at to see real progression.

For anyone wondering, this is what the board looks like! I think I did a post about it ages ago but never put up any pictures. If anyone wants any sizes or drawings then let me know but I think it's probably fairly obvious from the shots.

And finally I think I have some psyche for climbing, I might start training at the right time and I might actually achieve a few more ticks this year...who knows! I'm hoping to post once a week. I've noticed there are a lot of youtube communities out there that do an update once a week (like all the homebrewers that do a homebrew wednesday) So thought it might be cool to try and get a Training Monday or homeboard Sunday going. We'll see, might take off. Either way I'll keep anyone who's interested updated.

It's been awhile...

To be more precise 9 weeks and 3 days. Bugger! No climbing and most things seemed to have fallen by the waste side. PhD's take over your life. Everyone I know who is either doing one, or who has done one, says the same thing. At some point it consumes you, and not in a good way. You become cynical, start to hate the sight of a computer, you have no idea what it's like to spend time in 'the real world' and start to develop a drink problem. Maybe that's just me but it sucks. It'll soon be done though and then you'll all have to call me Dr. Sanders, Mwa-ha-ha-haaaa!

Sacked the gym off, it just takes too much time to get there. So I'm using this opportunity (every cloud has a silver lining right?) to get my fingers back up to strength.  Got my finger board up and got a little plan together. Going to try and get to the wall once every one or two weeks. I can use this as a bit of a progress indicator. Training on a finger board is great but it doesn't always translate into climbing ability, specificity dictates that your training should be representative of what your goal is. So training on a finger board alone, with no climbing, will result mainly in being good at finger boarding. Hopefully though my previous experience will return and I'll come back with strong fingers. Watch this space. Maybe for once I'll start training at the right time and get strong over the winter.  Aiming to submit in December so should bring me in just at the right time.  I've learnt a lot from following a gym based program and hopefully I can transfer some of that to climbing related training.  When I get a spare half an hour I'll try to post about it.

On a totally separate note, and certainly a more positive one, my girlfriend Hannah has been nominated for a North West blogger Award. You can access here blog and vote here.

I'm afraid that's all I have time for at the moment but I hope to get a few more posts up over the next few weeks, I've got to have something to look forward to!

Classic Rock - Stanage Ticked

Ticked off the remaining Classic Rock ticks for Stanage this evening.

I'd done Flying Buttress and April crack before, Hannah having done Flying Buttress previously. Even though we'd climbed at Birchen on Tuesday I'd really forgotten just how challenging climbing on grit can be.

We warmed up on a great little severe called Bishops Route, S 4a ***  Climbing an initial short crack takes you up to a ledge. This is followed by a few interesting moves to good flakes and finish direct.

Bishop`s Route.
© deepstar, Aug 2012 - ukclimbing.com

Next was one of the Classic Rock Ticks - Hargreaves' Original Route VS 4c ***  One of Stanage's choice VSs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a resting ledge. Continuing up the centre of the slab trending slightly rightwards. Well protected with modern technology. Photo page 96. © ROCKFAX

Hargreaves' Original Route, VS 4c *** - Image from Peterborough MC

As I said above, haven't climbed consistently on grit for some time now so it all feels a little alien.  It's a different style of climbing to anything else in the UK. Grit also is best climbed in cooler temps, it just gets sweaty and so do you! So this felt like a real challenge. With it being a slab you it doesn't take much strength so that was a good thing at least.

It's only 18m but looking up the slab the top seemed miles away. After some puffing and deep breaths I topped out and Hannah came up. I think retrospectively I really enjoyed the route, at the time I wondered if I still enjoyed the grit as much as I used to. I've come to the conclusion that grit is about a really confident approach and once you've got in to the groove things become much more enjoyable.

We finished off with a quick blast up Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct HS 4b ***  A great route up the wide crack splitting the centre of the face. Low in the grade but intimidating. Climb to the large overhang and shuffle out right to reach a small ledge below the main crack. From here route finding is not a problem. © ROCKFAX

 Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct HS 4b *** - © Chris wilson, Apr 2008

The little step out onto the front face is probably the crux, it's always scary stepping out onto something or round an arete. It just feels precarious and you usually notice that you're a long way off the ground (or at least at least it feels like that). The upper crack is straight forward, take a few friends though, they come in handy.  

We called it a day as we were getting had by the midges.  Not a bad little evening, 9 stars, 3 Top 50 climbs (Rockfax Top 50 Eastern Grit Guide) and 1 Classic Rock tick.

More climbing planned for the weekend so I'll put up our progress next week. Have a good weekend whatever you're doing! 

Birchen

Popped to Birchen last night to get a couple more routes on the classic rock list done!

Powder Money Parade HS 4b *** -  From the chock move right onto the arete, swing round the corner (4b, but harder for the short who will have to dangle) then teeter out right and finish up the well-positioned slab. Excellent. © ROCKFAX

Well I can tell you, it bloody wasn't excellent! The first part was a thrutch fest which I climbed in the most ungraceful fashion, but the slab somewhat made up for it.  The real problem though is the protection.  As so many have been on this route the placements (in particular the cams) have got bigger and worse as time has gone on. This leaves you with less than adequate placements.  Not to bad once you get to the traverse though. The garde has also gone up from my guidebook edition, used to be S 4a! 

Sail Buttress HS 4b ** -  A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to aid a shuffling traverse out to the left to access the final easier slab.© ROCKFAX

This is not the first time I've been on the route, I think I've seconded it 3 times, so it was a fairly straight forward proposition.  I think it's a quality route, and possibly worth of 3 stars but it would be nicer if it was a little more long lived so I can understand why it only gets 2.

Sail Buttress crux sequence© Jelly Mould Surfer, Apr 2013

15 down, 83 to go. Plan is to get out again this weekend, not sure where yet. Although I really want to go and Avalance/red wall/Longland's on Lliwedd. It's supposed to be a real adventure!

Video Round Up

Two post in one day - woah! This one is much quicker though.

I've written about the awesome and terrifying experience that is Gogarth and in particular Wen Zawn. It can be hard to get across just how it feels abseiling into a huge zawn (or sea cliff) knowing that once down there you have to climb out (unless you have the luxury of leaving the abseil rope).  Well this little video produced by the BMC might just highlight just what I'm talking about!

T Rex: The Movie from team_BMC on Vimeo.

This little beauty gives you a running commentary of the route. It's a very British perspective on climbing a route and really gives you a sense of what goes through your mind when climbing a trad route!

R 'n' S Special from Rob Matheson on Vimeo.


Climbing is generally engaged in by people who are aware of their impact, both on the environment and humanity. This particular video highlights that impact and how some climbers are trying to help change the lives of those affect by our desire to go and climb some the biggest peaks in the world!

Disposable Man from Outside Magazine on Vimeo.


This particular one isn't a video but an article. It links back to my last post about classic rock.  Libby Peters and Will Sim have ticked all the North Wales routes on the Classic Rock tick list in a single day - pretty impressive stuff! This consists of:

1. Great Gully VD 267m – Craig yr Ysfa

2. Gashed Crag VD 170m – East Face of Tryfan

3. Pinnacle Rib Route VD/S 175m – East Face of Tryfan

4. Grooved Arête HVD 233m – East Face of Tryfan

5. Direct Route VD 85m – Milestone Buttress

6. Direct Route HS 4c 91m – Glyder Fach

7. Hope VD 136m – Idwal Slabs

8. Lazarus S 4a 43m – Idwal Slabs

9. The Arete VD 24m – Idwal Slabs

10. Grey Slab VS 4b 85m – Glyder Fawr

11. Nea VS 4b 75m – Clogwyn y Grochan

12. Crackstone Rib S 4a 54m – Carreg Wastad

13. Wrinkle VD 71m – Carreg Wastad

14. Flying Buttress VD 87m – Dinas Cromlech

15. Spiral Stairs VD 84m – Dinas Cromlech

16. The Cracks HS 5a 90m – Dinas Mot

17. Main Wall HS 4b 140m – Cyrn Las

18. Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands S 4b 286m – Lliwedd

19. Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b 63m – Craig y Castell

You can read the rest of the story here.

Makes me wonder if you could do all the classic rock routes of the lakes in 1 day? Enjoy the videos!

Classic Rock Challenge.

As mentioned previously I'm working a fair bot at the moment so climbing has been restricted to days where the weather is perfect.  I've managed to put off going out and working instead. This weekend though I couldn't stay in while this amazing weather continued.

After taking an age to decide where to go and what to do we (myself and Hannah) finally decided on North Wales and the Ogwyn valley.  We had been here a few weeks previous and climbed Grooved Arête on Tryfan. I meant to write a post about it, oops! The short story is that we had a lovely weekend, I carried far too much gear for a route of the grade and that you should teach your second how to use a nut key; it's not obvious! 

Either way we headed back to the same campsite (Gwen Goflsaf Campsite) and set up camp on Saturday morning. As it was getting to the hottest part of day we relaxed in the sun and waited for the day to cool down before we made our way up to Clogwyn Bochlwyd.  This little crag, described as a good crag for an evening visit with outcrop climbing style, was a short and easy walk in (25 minutes) and had a range of routes from Diff up to E2.  We warmed up on Marble Slab. I misread the guide thinking it severe 4a.  After Hannah topped out I explain my thoughts - 'that was bloody stiff for 4a - bloody welsh grades!".  A quick check of the guide and all became clear; HS 4b. That'll be why then.


Next up was another HS 4b, Wall Climb.  An initial ramp, with little in the way of protection, is followed by a few wide moves to gain a sharp flake and the first bit of good gear. I found this to be the crux. After this a few big pulls on jugs and a mantle (supposed crux) leads to a heather terrace and possible stance.  As the route was only about 30m in length I carried on to save the faff with belays. You make you way round onto the face and are presented with jugs and big footholds but little in the way of protection.  Romping up this was great fun. I can image it being a different case had I not felt relaxed and enjoying the climbing.  We had a minor audience while climbing. When I'm having fun I tend to talk a fair bit of rubbish while climbing and generally joke about being scared. I'm sure our spectators must have thought I was a little loopy!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd - Marble slab on the right and Wall Climb on the left. Marble slab is the direct start to the route which follows the arete to the right at diff.

We headed back to the car and towards the nearest pub. After driving past several in Bethesda I decided to head back towards Capel Curig.  In the end I dropped Hannah off, raced to the nearest offy and got a few ciders. We had tea, had a read and called it a night. We planned an earlyish start for out adventures on Sunday.

I had planned on having a go at the HVS to the right of marble climb but didn't fancy it. Not having lead consistently for a while I could feel that my head wasn't keen for it!

Sunday morning rolled around and after being awoken by some D of E students at half 4 (note - just because you are up at 4:30am doesn't mean everyone else in the camp site would like top join you!) we got a few more hours of shut eye. Despite them being up way before us we had a quick breakfast, made some lunch and then headed off for our destination: Idwal Slabs.

Last summer I wrote about trying to tick the routes which comprise the Classic Rock tick list.  Classic rock is a book, complied by Ken Wilson, which accompanied Hard Rock: a feast of climbing literature, a celebration of 60 of the best routes in the land ranging from Mild Very Severe (MVS) to Extreme (E7), illustrated with a superb collection of crag and action shots.

I'd love to do both Classic Rock and Hard Rock. The Classic Rock list is perhaps more amenable but will still take some doing.  It consists of 83 routes, 219 stars, 6,313m of ascent and 234 pitches! That's a lot of climbing! (it is probably more than this in reality as you have to get to the climb and off again!). Perhaps the biggest challenge on the list is the Cullin ridge traverse. The grade given to this is VD, but it really doesn't equate to this. It's the most serious mountain challenge in the UK and it would be better to give an alpine style grade.  Either way, it's on the list and it's something me and Hannah are keen to do! You can check the full list here.

I've climbed 13 of the routes so far, many before I was serious about ticking them all.  Hence the trip to Idwal Slabs and an opportunity to tick 3 of the routes in one day.

(1) Hope, VD ***, 135m, 4 pitches.  Probably the most classic of the classics here and one of the most popular routes in Wales. The polished nature of the holds makes it a good bit harder in the wet 1) 45m. A quartzy slab leads to ledges and an A-shaped niche in the overlap. Pull through this, more slab work then leads to a stance 2) 25m. The glossy twin-cracks give skiddy work (good runners) to a flake, step left and continue to a stance in a corner 3) 20m. More neat climbing on nice crinkly holds leads to a stance in the groove 4) 28m. Climb the groove and sidestep the bulge leftwards, to reach ledgy ground 5) 18m. Continue until things rear up and an escape left is required. © ROCKFAX 

(2) Lazarus, S 4a *, 43m, 2 pitches. The easiest line hereabouts and a logical continuation to Tennis Shoe. Start from the grassy ledges in the base of Javelin gully 1) 4a, 12m. Three mini-mantels up the gully lead to a stance where it widens 2) 4a, 28m. Traverse left towards a jutting nose of rock and climb the groove to its right. © ROCKFAX 

(3) The Arete, VD *, 24m. Start up the groove then trend left to the well-positioned edge of the slab. Bold for the grade!© ROCKFAX

Idwal Slabs from Llyn Idwal.  Hope (red), Lazarus (blue) and The Arete (green).

We were, as expected, the first there and so didn't have to wait. I'd paired my rack right down, 10 QDs, 10 nuts, 3 cams and 2 slings. This made things much more enjoyable. We also took our 70m rope, which meant less belays. I mentioned to Hannah that this is a much more European way of climbing and really can make the difference when you go Alpine climbing. With a trip to the Dolomites planned next year, this would be the way we want to climb. 

First was Hope. Linking the first two pitches together and a full 70m rope length we were soon on our way. Considering the grade there is some epic climbing on this route.  The crux being the infamous twin cracks. The holds run out (sort of) about half way but a juggy flake comes to you rescue. Again running the next two together meant we were at the top of the route in no time.  By now a few more parties were starting up Hope and the various other climbs on the face.  

We had a quick check of the guide book, asking a soloing climber just to double check we were going up the correct way, and off we went again.  Lazarus only has 1 star but I think it's probably worth at least 1 more! The initial corner is interesting and requires a confident approach. Again linking both pitches together (2 ropes would be good for this or make sure you extend those runners!) makes things quicker.  The traverse is a little airy, with 150m of slab below, and has little in the way of gear but the holds just keep coming! Beware of the creaky flakes though!

And finally The Arete. A quick check of the guide and away we went.  Be warned this route is shocking for VD, I think it's possibly the most exposed and sketchy feeling VD I've ever done. The holds are all there and nothing is hard, but man...it's good value for VD that's for sure!

We topped out at 11.30, had quick Banana and few photos and off down the so called 'easy way off' which isn't all that easy! We had planned to summit Glydr Fawr but with the sun now beating down pysche for this was low. Llyn Idwal, the lake at the bottom of the slabs with it's pebble beach, seemed like a much nicer proposition for our lunch and off we went. And indeed it was! The water was warm and there were a few people swimming. I was tempted but with no towel we just dipped our feet in.

So that's the plan, any days we can get out climbing will be aimed at climbing routes on the Classic Rock List. We are off to Birchen in the Peak District this evening to tick the routes there. I'll pop a blog post up about it soon, so watch this space!

Hannah at the end of The Arete (Top) and us cooling our tired and sweaty feet off in Llyn Idwal (middle and bottom).

Making the most of the weather

With the weather being, for the UK, pretty dam awesome and having the car back (minus £170 for a new alternator OUCH!) we (me, Hannah and Matt) decided to go for a bit of after work climbing.

I'd got a big old list of places which could be good to check out but most were either too far, or the walk in just a little too long for an after work (post 5pm) climb. I picked Pule hill as I had my eye on a few routes. I've been before but due to weather or bottling it I'd not tried them. So why not now? Well there were a long list of reasons why I shouldn't but perhaps try giving yourself reason why you should do something it might just help you out!  

Of particular interest (i.e. I'd bottled this particular route 3 times I think) is The Great Scoop - VS 5a:  

18m. Well worth calling in for if you are passing this way. Traverse the slab to its apex and make an awkward move to access the ledge and a possible stance. Move right for a nicely exposed finish.

Hannah seconding. The crux is moving from the slab up the corner and onto the ledge. There is an E1 5b that goes left at the ledges out of the roof (looked like some interesting moves) and finishes up the slab. Maybe next time!

It starts out with a few easy moves and some good gear. Once established on the slab, the hand holds get a little smaller and it's all in you feet. With the route having had a good bit of sun, and a little breeze, the friction was fantastic.  I found the move off the slab and up to the ledge to be the crux. I tried it a few times and reversed as I wasn't happy committing. On the 3rd time of asking I got the moves done and found myself in the corner. Having not lead much for a while my brain was screaming out that I was coming off - I was pretty sure I was at one point shouting to Matt 'I'm off' only to find that things were okay provided I calmed myself.  

After a good rest on the ledge the exposed finish awaits.  I placed a few friends tried the moves a few times (sound familiar?) and reversed. A bit more of a rest I knew exactly what to do; match on a good pocket, move feet up, lock off and go for the break.  

Once I'd done it, I wasn't sure why I waited so long - but that's always the way.  What a quality little route, and to think I've hardly climbed this year. Just goes to show what a relaxed attitude and less pressure on yourself can do for you.  

On the exposed finish.  

Matt was up next. The first time I took him climbing was on Jean Jeanie - perhaps not the easiest introduction but he made it to the top. He didn't like me much after that. We've been climbing since but I thought I might have just done the same thing, he might just dislike me after this.  Despite that he made quick work of the slab (I found it a little precarious) and made his way through the crux (not bad for someone who climbs about once a year). It was at this point, pumped, sweaty and red faced, that I heard him utter 'I don't like you at the moment James'.  With some words of encouragement and positive reinforcement he had a crack at the finish.  Despite giving it his all the top alluded him, forarms like iron and totally pumped! Lowering him to the ground the smile on his face showed he'd enjoyed it. He said later it hadn't been like Jean Jeanie (terrifying!) but enjoyable, his only disappointment being not making the top - but he'd enjoyed it all the same PHEW!

Matt using his beastly shoulders and guns to good effect burling his way through the crux!

Hannah was next.  Again she too made quick work of the slab and made her way into the crux. With a little gusto and some bum shuffling she was soon through the crux and at the ledge.  After a minor rest, she attempted the final moves.  The quickest way was to power up to the finishing jug. The initial attack unsucessful, she decided to be lowered down. Quickly changing her mind, she had another brief rest to give it one all out go!  Match hands in the slot, move feet up, dead point to the break, move feet again and on the jug.  With some power screams (angry sounding grunts, fueled by earlier lack of understanding at something!) she put 110% in latched the final hold and topped out!

From top to bottom; Start of the crux moves; The bum shuffle technique, always handy ;  Hannah after topping out in the evening sun - pleased as punch!

With the sun going down and it getting a little colder we decided to call it a day. Even though it was 1 route, it packed a lot in for it's 18m and I happy to have ticked it.  We headed back to Manchester for some grub and a celebratory pint.  

It's a nice feeling to just go out without any pressure on what you've got to lead, or if you don't lead x,y,z or a route of a specific grade then the days not 'successful'. Odd thing is that by doing so I actually climbed something which did challenge me and I had fun.

Plans are afoot to head to North Wales this weekend to test out a new tent which we purchased last year and take Hannah's sister to celebrate them both finishing their respective exams.  A big congratulations to you both as I'm sure you'll have done just fine - whatever the grade you've both worked hard and given it your all! That's all anyone can ask of you; even yourselves!

Check back next week for some more pics of the weekend and fun times! 

For your viewing pleasure

As always I like to keep abreast of climbing literature (aka waste time not doing work). Although I'm not climbing much I still get psyched watching videos and reading reports.  So I've put a few videos up that I think are worth a watch.  Some form parts of series, you can go and watch the other videos in the series by clicking the link.

First up are some climbing basics.  If you're in to anything that isn't single pitch then you may at some time need to abseil (rappel for out US visitors) using a full rope length. This means tying two ropes together. The following video demonstrates this nicely!

Rock Climbing Basics 12: Knots for Rappelling - from Wild Country, Red Chili and Climbing Magazine. from Wild Country on Vimeo.

The one thing I might mention, which I don't think is such a good idea, is tossing the whole rope in one go. I picked this little tip up from Mark Twight's book (Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High). Throw only half your rope and the feed the other half through your hand. Although this might seem slower, it will help with avoiding tangles etc.  There are some other very useful videos in this series such as how to extend your belay device when abseiling (helps with stopping your prussik back up sliding into belay and when cliping when arriving at the anchor) and clipping into the belay!  

Another series from wild country is with regard to training. James Pearson is doing a series on how to train at the climbing gym. There are currently only two videos out but they are good and considering he's now climbing some pretty hard and big routes I'm happy to take his advice. I reckon there will be some more in the series to watch that space.

James Pearson - Stamina Training - Part 1 - Endurance training for routes of more than 30 moves... from Wild Country on Vimeo.

Next up is The Smiley's Project - Committed: Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. These pair are just awesome. They are trying to climb 50 of Classic climbs in North America. They are a married couple and it's really inspiring to watch. If you think so too, you can donate some money to their project and keep it going as they are doing off their own back and anyone who is willing to sponsor them!

This video is both awesome and scary all at the same time. I don't think I've seen such a loose pile of choss in all my life and I can honestly say that this climb will most likely never appear on tick list...what do you think?

Mt Alberta's Japanese Route from Mark Smiley on Vimeo.

They've got loads of other videos on their site so go check them out!

A few more training videos coming up. First off is Jan Hojer. This guy has made some quick ascents of hard problems and has a fair few f8a/+ flashes to his name.  I think he might like campussing a little... :-P

Jan Hojer Training from Jan Hojer on Vimeo.

This isn't a how to video just to give some perspective  We all think we know how to train or that we are training as hard as we can but are we really? Not to say that you're not of course, but videos like this always make me question am I training as hard as I can or is it as effective as it could be...who knows!

Galina Parfenov is next with this a video that is somewhere in between a how to and just showing what she does.  I think it's going to part of a series (I've noticed there is a preview up for part two on her youtube page) so check back to see what part 2 holds.

There are lots of videos popping up at the moment about various training ideas and methods. Youtube has some videos which have been put up by people doing sports science degrees on climbing drills for techniques which are good.  Basically there seems to be more information coming out about what people are doing and why. 

The final few videos up here are just ones that I think are cool and again, super inspiring! Not much more to be said!

Careless Torque from Outcrop Films on Vimeo.

I can't get the video for this one so just follow the link, click on on page 9 and you'll see it.  It's a video of Dave Macleod climbing his 8c+/9a Flight the feeling.  The route is an extension to Ring of Steal which goes at 8c. I love Dave's mentality. After climbing Ring of Steal the obvious thing to him was that he must be able to climb something harder, otherwise he wouldn't have been able to do the route, hence just bolt the head wall and do the harder direct finish.  

Hope you enjoy the videos and have an awesome weekend!

No climbing, no gym, no nothing!

As the title says I've not been up to much lately. Just working, working and working some more!

I did manage to get a session down at MCC last week, the first one in a long time, and I was pleasantly surprised.  I was probably climbing about the same grade (bouldering) as I was 6 months ago. Flashed most of the problems in the V2-V4 range and even manged to flash a few from from the V4-V6 problems.  It was a nice surprise and certainly not expected. One thing it highlights is that my training, probably more specifically my diet, really wasn't helping with my climbing, but I've spoken about that. As the weather is utter rubbish at the moment climbing really isn't on the cards, outdoor at least. I might head down to rockover this week and see what's what. Although my fingers might be weak(er) overall I feel  fair bit strong (or more stable at least) so it would be interesting to see. Might see if I can't get a routing session in at the weekend and check my stamina. I expect my route fitness is non existent!

The gym has been off the cards as I currently am without transport. The car is playing up (electrical fault of some description) and the bike I was using is out of action.  It wasn't my bike and I had it on long term lone from Andy, which I very much appreciate!! He's asked for it back so I've stopped using it and plan on giving it a full service so it's in tip top condition when he gets it back.  I'm waiting on some parts and tools to turn up and then I can get it done.

This left me with a minor dilemma; what do I do about transport? Well I've always had a bike since the ripe old rage of 11 when I had my first BMX.  There was a small part of me that wanted a BMX again but they are less than practical!

I've got an old mountain bike frame which would make a good starting point for a single speed cruiser, so that's what I plan on doing.  Once these tools turn up it can be stripped and the various parts that need adding/replacing can go on and it should be good to go!

This will be the bare minimum to get it road going but I plan to slowly build it up etc. I've added a page to blog which will detail the various stages and should hopefully serve as a guide to anyone who wants to do the same thing.

Bank Holiday Climbing and a few musings.

Over the bank Holiday myself and Hannah headed out (for the first time this year) to place some gear and do some Trad.  Nothing that difficult or scary on the cards, but trad always feels a little bit scary when the last time you placed gear was well over 6 months ago (checkout the post).

So with good weather promised and the desire to still tick the classic rock tick list the plan was to go and do Troutdale pinnacle. After a hefty few days in Bristol for a friends Stag Do, I didn't fancy getting up at the crack of dawn.

We had a leisurely start and arriving in Borrowdale about 11.30am we walked the short distance towards the crag.  It was obvious straight away the crag was busy. A few climbers walking in the other direction warned that there were 3 parties on the pinnacle and a number of others on all the other routes up to about E2; some of whom appeared to having an epic!

Armed with this knowledge, we headed back the way we came and towards Shepards Crag. I knew it would be mega busy so I suggested we headed to do Fool's Paradise at Gowder Crag, only another 10 minutes further on.  The guidebook said it was one of the best VS's in Borrowdale so why not.

Arriving at the bottom there was a party about 2/3 the way up so we stopped for a quick bite to eat and to rack up.  I felt pretty on edge. Not having lead anything for some time, I wasn't certain of success on this route. My average lead grade last year was only HS (despite me doing more climbs last year than any year previously) although I can't remember the last time I fluffed a VS.

Anyway, after a rather dank first pitch the climbing that followed was simply great. I could tell I hadn't been on the sharp end for a while but I really did enjoy it.  Having no real desire to climb the route, but just being happy to be climbing, seemed to have worked. I was happy above gear and wasn't fussed about falling off. I was always placing gear in a rested position and didn't get stressed and panic when the climbing was a challenge. Basically it was as climbing should be, challenging but not so scary that once you finish the thought of going again fills you with dread.

That's where I was last year. Putting myself under so much pressure to be out and climbing routes all in the name of being able to say I was good climber, or an E3 leader (or whatever), that I stopped having fun. It became a massive chore. I was constantly pushing myself and if I hadn't done something that pushed me beyond a certain level, as opposed to just pushing me, then the day had been a failure. This was in-spite of the fact that I might have lead some really good routes, or that I'd just been there to experience someone else's success!

So I feel like I've got some psyche back, not to start training again, but just to go out and have a good time.  I do want to start training again just not at the moment. With my PhD in overdrive (I'm trying to finish for September) then training just isn't going to fit in.  As I've said before I'm going to the gym at the moment and it's really helped my overall condition and alleviated many of the problems I had.  What I'd like to do is combine the both, I think it's something that will help me stay fresh and be able to train that much harder.

The other thing which going to the gym has really helped with is the mind muscle focus that is required when lifting weights, or more preciously bodybuilding.  I've been following a bodybuilding type program which focuses on a certain look rather than just being able to lift weights. The upshot of that is that you train your mind to activate the muscle group you are working. This means you can lift a very light weight and still see plenty of growth. The reason being is your muscle has no concept of weight, it just knows that it has to do work. As long as you're stressing the muscle it will adapt and grow. Also if, for instance you're training pecs, then there is no point lifting a heavy weight only for your shoulders to be doing the work!

'So what's that got to do with climbing?' I hear you ask. Well one of the aspects of my climbing which I know is rubbish is I over grip. I'll be climbing really easy stuff but I'm baring down on each and every hold as  if my life depended upon it. Through the training I've been doing I'm much more aware of how hard I'm squeezing my muscles and I can only see this having a positive effect on my climbing.

It's also helped me with my posture, especially while training. I was doing some fingerboarding and I noticed that my shoulders and elbows were all out of shape (I was rotating my elbows towards the centre line of my body) which puts huge amounts of pressure across the upper back and neck.

I was basically doing all the things that might cause you to have neck issues from fingerboarding, namely:

• Avoid extending you neck (i.e. looking upwards) - always did this when I got tired - keep looking forwarding.
• No shrugging 
• Keep your shoulders low and tight
• Do not flex you arms.

Basically I did all of these things in one form or another. 

The final point to take from these musing which I had is that I was actually reasonably strong prior to this prolonged break. I've checked out my old training diary for the finger boarding I was doing and I could fully lock off on two fingers (both hands) for over 7 seconds and repeat this for numerous sets.  So why was I so crap?

Well mainly poor technique and not being aware of how poor I was climbing. Focusing too much on JUST climbing and the idea that the reason I couldn't get up stuff was because I was weak.  The gym stuff has made me realise the importance of repetition and high volume sets to start a periodized training program.  It's one thing I've never done. I mean who wants to climb loads of easy routes, you want to be redpointing the hard stuff right? Wrong! You have to go and do loads of volume, stuff that doesn't completely box you, in order to learn how to move efficiently on rock and be relaxed.

So although I'm not going to be training for a while yet (I'm having to actively not because it's easy to go/not go to the gym but climbing is a little more involved and I need all my brain power for physics :-P), but when I do I really think that I can make lots more of what I've got. I mean if I was training like a mad man before and climbed a few E1s (but mainly VSs) and I haven't climbed for months but can still climb VS that really shows that my training and the routes I was climbing were rather disconnected. 

The only criteria I have for climbing at the moment is that the weather needs to be spot on otherwise I can't afford the time off.  If we should get some more decent weather then you'll see the odd occasional post.  If not then come September it'll be time to get serious (but have fun) again and I'll be posting more regularly.  E5 is still my goal but my main aim is just to have some bloody fun!! 

Some Perspective and Back to Climbing?

So it's been a long time since I posted here (August last year really) and I thought I might give a heads up as to what I'm doing, or not as the case may be, at the moment.

So I haven't really been climbing all that much, but when I have been I've really enjoyed it. I haven't climbed anything particularly hard (although I nearly ticked a 7A boulder problem at Robin hoods stride) but it's been fun whenever I've been out.

I have been keeping on top of training, just not climbing orientated exactly.  I've been following a strength based program at the gym which incorporates progressive overload and periodization. I've also got a handle on my diet, which previously was way off point. Yes I was light because of it, but I just wasn't giving my body the nourishment it needed to train 4-5 days a week and not end up being totally battered. I also entered a transformation contest, see the picture below.

So after nearly 6 months of hard work in the gym I'm finally feeling like my body, and mind, is ready to get back to some form of climbing training. There is one challenge with this and that is I'm not in the very final stages (only 6 months to go) of my PhD.

Left: Me after training exclusively for climbing and having poor diet and nutrition. Right: 12 weeks later after  training 4 times a week at the gym. The right being about 4lbs lighter i.e. a much better power to weight ratio.

Easy I hear you say, sack the gym off, get down the wall, and hey presto still in the same position. Well, not quite.  I've come to the conclusion that ONLY training at the wall can leave you being rather unbalanced, physically, and having a strength based element (i.e. weights) should be incorporated into any training regime.  You look at any climber and they usually have wide lats, big rhomboids and massive forearms in comparison to the rest of the body. The reason obviously being that these are the main muscle groups that get worked/used when climbing. The problem for me is that this just leads me to being injured. It increases the level of tension across my shoulders, my forearms are tight and  I just don't feel as composed.  The few times that I have been climbing over the last 6 months I've felt a lot more stable and I look more stable too. Not shaking like a shitting dog on holds which I previously was due to weak/undeveloped deltoids.

All this information has come from going to the gym, and being able to see how certain movements create growth. Taking the movements which are climbing specific/related I can see how I became like a rubber band, so much tension in certain directions and ready to snap.  Another thing which I've really hit on is the mind muscle connection; using your mind to really focus on a particular contraction of the muscle you're trying to work. This has a direct consequence for climbing. Previously I used to waste so much energy over gripping; I'm hoping using this mind muscle connection can allow me to use my strength and power more efficiently.

There are also serious plans to go to North America (Red rocks, Joshua Tree and Yosemite) on a climbing trip after I've finished my PhD.  Watch this space for more information regarding that little adventure.

I've got a set of rock rings and fingerboard set up at home so I'm going to add in a maybe 2-3 sessions a week on those while maintaining the gym. Then once my fingers have got stronger reduce the gym training to twice a week and start training at the wall 2-3 times a week. Although it would have been better (with where the season is) to start all this in January but I wasn't ready then.  I am now so I should still get a good whack ticked this year and I'm feeling ready to just enjoy it and not take it all so serious.  I've also got a few ideas to create all the training aids I need based on what I have at home and just focus purely on my fitness at the wall, just getting loads of mileage in.

I think after having a specific gym plan for the last 6 months, it's given me a much clearer idea on periodized training and I'm hoping I can use that to great effect and apply it to climbing.

Either way It's all about having fun at the end of day and that's what I plan to do: have some fun!

Metolious rock-rings on a Power bar. I've also got a beast maker which attaches to the bar.  These should help get my finger strength back, watch this space!

Moonraker HVS 5a, Berry Head

I wrote this post some time back (Summer 2012) and actually forgot to post it so here goes! I've also got a video to go with it so once I dig out I'll put it up for your viewing pleasure.

A few weeks ago me and Hannah headed down to the west country to get some climbing done. Despite a dismal week of weather we did get one day and a chance to climb the classic Hard Rock route of Moonraker at Berry Head. Heralded as possibly the best HVS in England, it should be high on any climbers tick list and I can confirm it's awesome!

The Great Cave at Berry Head. Moon raker takes a traverse line to the left and then winds it's way up , finishing up the steep corner.

After watching the weather the previous evening, the forecast looked good for the area of Anstys Cove and Berry Head.  The description in the guidebook, for Berry Head, conjured up images of fantastic climbing in a wild setting - a real adventure

"The massive yawning mouth of the Old Redoubt's Great Cave is one of the most intimidating sections of sea-cliff in the West Country; its tiered overhangs seemingly impossible to breakthrough. However, the rock is some of the most climbable to be found anywhere, and is peppered with jugs and handrails that allow the outrageous overhangs and walls to be scaled. The Old Redoubt holds some of the most sought-after long sea-cliff classics in the UK" - Roackfax West Country Guide

With tide tables checked, gear packed, and a few nerves we set off from our base and made the short journey. Only a few words were spoken until we arrived at the Car park, the infamous sea-level traverse awaiting.  After a few route finding issues, we made it to the gearing up ledges - and the Met office had been correct; we were blessed with a lovely summers day.

A final check of all the gear and we were off, or were we? The start involves a scramble on loose rock to get down to sea level. 1000s of years of evolution scream at you: 'what are you doing - this is bloody dangerous'.  The brave (or stupid?) will be rewarded though.  A few more feet and the climbing is interspersed by big holds and in-situ bits of rope. We were down at sea level with the start of the traverse proper to come.  A seal came over, a mere 6 foot away, to inspect what we were up to. It's crazy when you think about it, some people pay to see this kind of thing, and we got it free - minus the sweat that was now pouring down my back. Was I really going to do this? This traverse is only accessible for a couple hours each day either side of low tide.  An abseil can be made but this all adds to the adventure your about to experience!

10 minutes later and we were almost at the belay.  As you head round the back of cave, things appear fairly benign. However as you head back out on the opposing wall, things become a little more interesting. Soaking wet holds are your first obstacle, having spent most the day under water they certainly won't be dry any time soon!  This general feeling of insecurity is further compounded by the lack of visibility - it's dark, you're blinded by the sun streaming through - turning back could be a good shout right about now but those who persevere will be greatly rewarded.  A section of overhanging wet holds blocked the way, I didn't fancy going for a swim and was starting to have seconds thoughts: we could still escape and live to fight another day.

Hannah wasn't having any of it, with boots removed and balls of steel (figuratively), she waded through and was at the belay. A little ashamed (good job I had 3 pitches of this uber classic to redeem myself) I followed suit and was soon at the belay! The adrenaline slowly subsiding, I set up the belay, sorted gear, and had a final check of the guidebook and was ready to go.

The first pitch consists of a diagonal traverse right from the belay and then up a steep crack, covered in bird poo, and a traverse back left to a large stance at the base of another corner crack. It was a great little picth and I was so pleased we'd got on it. A few young lads in a small boat came up to watch for a while, I could spy they were drinking beer, I knew I'd be ready for one after this.  I also had a very close call with a fulmar chick. Although most of the nesting birds had now cleared the cliff, evidently a few remained.

For those of you unfamiliar with fulmars, they are sea-birds which nest on rock sea cliffs; the egg being laid atop of plant material in a rock depression.  A fulmar chick has a great defensive mechinism; at the sight of a intruder/predator they will projectile vomit the contents of their stomachs. This is usually very oily and VERY fishy. Once covered in this you can expect to throw away you clothes and smell of rotting fish for a few days.

On my hearing a seeing the the chick just about to eject it's stomach content I ducked down and climbed out of view. This would be the first or two encounters of this nature. Both times my instinct causing me to make a noise like a scared child - I think these were the scariest moments on the climb!

1st pitch on the rising leftward traverse.

Hannah followed quickly and we checked the guide book and started pitched two. This was the easiest and shortest pitch of the 3, being 17m and 4c. The guidebook description being Climb the corner to a steepening, then head left across the wall to a comfortable stance on a pedestal. Peg, thread and sling belay. 

The second pitch looking back to the belay at the top of the first pitch. The fulmar chick was encounter just a few feet to the left!

The peg leaves a little to be desired but such is the nature of sea cliff climbing.  After a brief rest for 5 minutes and to take in the position the final pitch loomed large above.

After reading a number of accounts I knew that the final pitch was fairly straight forward for the first 28m, then around 4m from the top the holds run out, you get pumped and air time becomes ever more realistic. 

A small and compact traverse leads to the crack which is climbed via some superb bringing and solid jams, easy enough so far; don't know what all the fuss is about! Bloody hell I'm nearly at the top, I can see the final few moves look easy enough. Place a bomber runner and away we go. A few moves around a little lip, nothing but 100 feet of air and the sea below and...bugger...where have the holds gone. Not to worry there is a good jam here, or maybe not! The crack is full of green slime and bird crap and it's awkward. Oh sh*t I'm getting pumped...quick reverse. Right more gear, then get it done before you get boxed! I can see that about 4 moves up I can bridge out and relax but those moves in between seem a lot more difficult than the supposed 5a!

Hannah having climbed the crux with ease. Nothing but space
and sea over 100ft below

A few more goes and now I'm even more pumped. Relax and composure yourself - it's just a crack. Imagine all those gritstone cracks you've climbed you know how to do this. right GO!

30 seconds later and I pull over the top to be bathed in glorious sunshine and a huge iron pole which would certainly suffice for the anchor. 










Hannah followed fiiding the crux 'good fun but not to tough'...or something along those lines. The plan was to head down to another sea cliff and bag another few routes but I'd had enough adventure for one day and what a route to call it a day on! It's certainly one of, if not the, best route I've climbed. I high;y recommend it!!

Hannah topping out on possibly the best HVS in the coutry, Moonraker!