Birchen

Popped to Birchen last night to get a couple more routes on the classic rock list done!

Powder Money Parade HS 4b *** -  From the chock move right onto the arete, swing round the corner (4b, but harder for the short who will have to dangle) then teeter out right and finish up the well-positioned slab. Excellent. © ROCKFAX

Well I can tell you, it bloody wasn't excellent! The first part was a thrutch fest which I climbed in the most ungraceful fashion, but the slab somewhat made up for it.  The real problem though is the protection.  As so many have been on this route the placements (in particular the cams) have got bigger and worse as time has gone on. This leaves you with less than adequate placements.  Not to bad once you get to the traverse though. The garde has also gone up from my guidebook edition, used to be S 4a! 

Sail Buttress HS 4b ** -  A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to aid a shuffling traverse out to the left to access the final easier slab.© ROCKFAX

This is not the first time I've been on the route, I think I've seconded it 3 times, so it was a fairly straight forward proposition.  I think it's a quality route, and possibly worth of 3 stars but it would be nicer if it was a little more long lived so I can understand why it only gets 2.

Sail Buttress crux sequence© Jelly Mould Surfer, Apr 2013

15 down, 83 to go. Plan is to get out again this weekend, not sure where yet. Although I really want to go and Avalance/red wall/Longland's on Lliwedd. It's supposed to be a real adventure!