Thursday, 6 June 2013

Making the most of the weather

With the weather being, for the UK, pretty dam awesome and having the car back (minus £170 for a new alternator OUCH!) we (me, Hannah and Matt) decided to go for a bit of after work climbing.

I'd got a big old list of places which could be good to check out but most were either too far, or the walk in just a little too long for an after work (post 5pm) climb. I picked Pule hill as I had my eye on a few routes. I've been before but due to weather or bottling it I'd not tried them. So why not now? Well there were a long list of reasons why I shouldn't but perhaps try giving yourself reason why you should do something it might just help you out!  

Of particular interest (i.e. I'd bottled this particular route 3 times I think) is The Great Scoop - VS 5a:  

18m. Well worth calling in for if you are passing this way. Traverse the slab to its apex and make an awkward move to access the ledge and a possible stance. Move right for a nicely exposed finish.

Hannah seconding. The crux is moving from the slab up the corner and onto the ledge. There is an E1 5b that goes left at the ledges out of the roof (looked like some interesting moves) and finishes up the slab. Maybe next time!
It starts out with a few easy moves and some good gear. Once established on the slab, the hand holds get a little smaller and it's all in you feet. With the route having had a good bit of sun, and a little breeze, the friction was fantastic.  I found the move off the slab and up to the ledge to be the crux. I tried it a few times and reversed as I wasn't happy committing. On the 3rd time of asking I got the moves done and found myself in the corner. Having not lead much for a while my brain was screaming out that I was coming off - I was pretty sure I was at one point shouting to Matt 'I'm off' only to find that things were okay provided I calmed myself.  

After a good rest on the ledge the exposed finish awaits.  I placed a few friends tried the moves a few times (sound familiar?) and reversed. A bit more of a rest I knew exactly what to do; match on a good pocket, move feet up, lock off and go for the break.  

Once I'd done it, I wasn't sure why I waited so long - but that's always the way.  What a quality little route, and to think I've hardly climbed this year. Just goes to show what a relaxed attitude and less pressure on yourself can do for you.  


On the exposed finish.  
Matt was up next. The first time I took him climbing was on Jean Jeanie - perhaps not the easiest introduction but he made it to the top. He didn't like me much after that. We've been climbing since but I thought I might have just done the same thing, he might just dislike me after this.  Despite that he made quick work of the slab (I found it a little precarious) and made his way through the crux (not bad for someone who climbs about once a year). It was at this point, pumped, sweaty and red faced, that I heard him utter 'I don't like you at the moment James'.  With some words of encouragement and positive reinforcement he had a crack at the finish.  Despite giving it his all the top alluded him, forarms like iron and totally pumped! Lowering him to the ground the smile on his face showed he'd enjoyed it. He said later it hadn't been like Jean Jeanie (terrifying!) but enjoyable, his only disappointment being not making the top - but he'd enjoyed it all the same PHEW!

Matt using his beastly shoulders and guns to good effect burling his way through the crux!


Hannah was next.  Again she too made quick work of the slab and made her way into the crux. With a little gusto and some bum shuffling she was soon through the crux and at the ledge.  After a minor rest, she attempted the final moves.  The quickest way was to power up to the finishing jug. The initial attack unsucessful, she decided to be lowered down. Quickly changing her mind, she had another brief rest to give it one all out go!  Match hands in the slot, move feet up, dead point to the break, move feet again and on the jug.  With some power screams (angry sounding grunts, fueled by earlier lack of understanding at something!) she put 110% in latched the final hold and topped out!





From top to bottom; Start of the crux moves; The bum shuffle technique, always handy ;  Hannah after topping out in the evening sun - pleased as punch!


With the sun going down and it getting a little colder we decided to call it a day. Even though it was 1 route, it packed a lot in for it's 18m and I happy to have ticked it.  We headed back to Manchester for some grub and a celebratory pint.  

It's a nice feeling to just go out without any pressure on what you've got to lead, or if you don't lead x,y,z or a route of a specific grade then the days not 'successful'. Odd thing is that by doing so I actually climbed something which did challenge me and I had fun.

Plans are afoot to head to North Wales this weekend to test out a new tent which we purchased last year and take Hannah's sister to celebrate them both finishing their respective exams.  A big congratulations to you both as I'm sure you'll have done just fine - whatever the grade you've both worked hard and given it your all! That's all anyone can ask of you; even yourselves!

Check back next week for some more pics of the weekend and fun times! 

1 comment:

  1. Ohh I am so jealous! Glad you all enjoyed it and hope you have a great weekend. I shall be stuck on trains for 4-5 hours to go and give a talk about IOP in York. Fun times!

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