El Chorro

So after almost 2 weeks of no posting, I'm back from El Chorro.  I extended the stay by an extra 6 days to get more climbing done. I could have happily stayed for longer but with work looming in the back of my mind I knew that was about as much as I could get away with!

As it was a fairly long trip I'm just going to pick out a few highlights and some of the positives from the trip. It's all a little mixed up in my mind as to what day we did what so I'll just write it as it makes sense in my mind.

Firstly was the bunk-house which we managed to get in was pretty awesome.  The Olive Branch is a little B&B which has both a bunk house and camping facilities. It's Run by Gary and Mel and they are really friendly and very helpful. If you going out there then certainly give this place a look. I know I'll be staying there again! The other positive about this place is there is a crag right behind it. Las Encantatdas hosts a number of climbs (36 in the Rockfax guide) with most being in the 6b to 7b category with a few 8a and above routes.  It's a great place to go in it's own right with a couple of quality 7a's.  I ticked a really good 6c+ called La ley del Cateto. An easy lower section leads to a blank looking groove which you bridge up. After this a few fierce pulls on smaller slots and side pulls lead to a jug and the anchors. It took me about 5 goes to get it but it packs a lot of climbing in it's 24 metres.

    Chilling out before the upper crux section and after the smearing groove. 

We also got on a great 7a up there called Redders.  A tricky lower section leads to some jug pulling and a fantastic no hands rest in a grotty cave (complete with copious amounts of swallow poo!). From there some odd moves involving jamming and general thrutching lead to the anchors. Although the climbing wasn't too difficult from the cave, the bolt was a long way out right and good swing was going to be had should a fall be taken. I can confirm that the swing certainly is good! I fell coming out of the cave and with the anchors in sight. Do be warned though, if you attempt this route late in the evening swallows nest in the pockets of route. A number came out at a fast pace straight towards Joe's face on his go. This meant him checking each hold as he went along with tapping the rock and making a 'kakaa' sound! 

  

Joe pulling through the middle, juggy, section of Redders - watch out for the swallows mate.

Me taking the huge rest in the swallow poo cave of Redders, 7a, at Las Encantadas.

We also headed over to the Poem Cave to have a look at one of the classic 7a's, Poema de Roca. Described as a fun, and pumpy romp up up steep tufas and cracks it was certainly steep and good fun.  I'm a big advocate of onsight climbing climbing as I think it is climbing in it's purest form.  That being said, trying to onsight a classic route like this can be difficult.  So many people get on it there are chalked up holds everywhere. This results in you making about 5 moves to find the best hold which can really pump you out. After a warm up on a good 5+ and a 6b called Stonker we headed over. After waiting in a cue for a couple of hours we decided to go elsewhere and come back another day.  On our return the following week we had the line to ourselves. Ste put the draws in and I cruised my way to the rather odd head rest.  Not feeling too pumped I pushed on only for the pump to set in just as I was making the clip. I reversed and tried to recover at the rest but it wasn't enough and I was off.  This was certainly a theme of my trip, getting close to ticking alot of 7a's but not actually ticking one, more on this later. We went back for a 3rd day but I still couldn't manage it. Ste cruised it on his 2nd redpoint and Joe got the flash: Good work boys!  

Ste on his redpoint of Poema Da Roca, 7a.

The traverse right into the cracks and another good jug to rest on, just didn't have it in me to make the moves.  

The no hands head rest, it's better when you face the other way!

Once the decision had been made to go to El Chorro I had to get a guide book (I'm one of those people who trawls guide books until I know the routes pretty well - it get's me psyched for a trip!). There a were a few multi-pitch sport climbs to be had and the classic has got to be Amptrax.  At 6a the climbing isn't hard but you cartainly get some great exposure, the route being 140m long and having a 45m traverse in it.  Myself and Joe decided we'd give it a shot. In our intial excitement to do it, and after going slightly crazy on our rest day, we had banded the idea of simu-climbing it (i.e both climbing at the same time but still with a rope attached between us). Our better judgement took over on the day and we decided to climb it the old fashioned way and alternate leads. We'd also had a chat with some people from Edinburgh University climbing club and two of their group would be doing it the same day. The race was on, we got up early and picked up the pace to ensure we were first on route, and we were.  After a near miss scrambling to the bottom of the route, Joe pulling a hold off and nearly falling off, we got geared up and started.  

Amptrax. The line in black shows the 7 pitches which me and Joe climbed and the red line is the abseil we made to get back to ground.

Linking the first two pitches together, 3 and 5+, we were well on our way. Joe lead the next short 5+ pitch and we were going to swing leads from here.  At this point we noticed that the pair from the University club had started climbing. Not wanting to be caught up we decided to start linking the pitches again.  This meant I got to lead the two 6a pitches. It's some of the most fun and enjoyable climbing I have done; nothing particularly hard but interesting all the way. 

Belaying at the top of the two 6a pitches on Amptrax. Joe is 36m below at the last belay.  

This left Joe with the two traverse pitches which again we linked together. Again these involved some great climbing and some fantastic exposure.           

Joe off round round the corner on the traverse pitch.  

The route can be finished with an easy, but possibly loose, scramble or 4 35m abseils. We opted for the abseils, but with Joe's slightly shortened rope we weren't sure if we could make it to all the abseil points. This turned out to be case on the first abseil, the result of which was me hanging on a single bolt while Joe abseiled to another lower-off in order to get to the next abseil point - scary times. I told myself it was ok though as the bolt looked pretty new!  We eventually got down and headed to find Danny and Ben. I can certainly recommend Amptrax especially if it's with-in your onsight grade! Also bolted belays make a nice change to trad belays. With-in about 2 mins of getting to the belay you can have it set-up and have your partner really to climb. It probably only took us about 2 and 1/2 hours from top to bottom, with 45 mins being spent on getting down. 

The rest of the time was spent trying some of the 7a, 7a+ and 7b routes. Unfortunately I didn't tick any them (my goal was to try and tick 5 7a's!) but I feel like I've really improved while out there.  It can be hard, and pretty disheartening, to keep falling off stuff and not getting to the chains. But it was good to be on stuff that is testing me all the time.  My psyche stayed pretty high throughout and I was always keen to get on another route even if it I didn't get it clean.  

By using the mental strategies which I've spoken about it was easier to take positives from my climbing. I think the thing which is spurring me on more now is the thought that I was continually getting close to ticking 7a's and b's.  6 month's ago I thought 6a's and b's were about as good as I was ever going to get and my hardest redpoint was 6b, which I did over a year ago. Since I've started writing this blog I've ticked a few 6c's, a 6c+ and a 7a; things are certainly moving in the right direction!

 I'm already planning my trip back there in October and with one clear goal in mind: Lourdes, a classic 8a at Makinodromo - an unrelenting pitch up the central line of tufas that sports a hard start and a pulse-enhancing finish... When I go back I also want to flash all the routes which I have been unable to do on this trip.  Although 8a may appear a rather stratospheric target to some, I certainly feel that if I carry on with my training, get out as much as possible and continue keep pushing myself that 8a is most definitely on the cards!

The other interesting point to make note of is rest! I climbed for 12 days with 1 days rest.  I felt pretty battered but I was surprised with how well my body coped with it all. I think it is finally starting to get used to the level of intensity which is required to climb harder routes (it's only taken about 7 years!).  

Rests were also much more common on the routes in El Chorro. This is something which I wasn't used to and it took a while for me to make the most of them (I still don't think I took full advantage of them!). You don't experience them so much on British routes, or the ones I have climbed at least, as they tend to be short. Most pitches we climbed were 30m in length so many had some form of decent rest or, hard overhanging sections were interspersed with easier climbing where you could get really good shakeouts.  I think this will really help on the mountain trad routes which I want to start climbing, which tend to have more cruxy sections followed by easier sections.

The trip as a whole was absolutely class and I'm not sure I've laughed as much in a very long time.  We met some really cool people as well and it was great to hear about their experiences, of both El Chorro and other climbing areas.  It has certainly made me feel a lot more positive about my climbing and I know that I can achieve what I want to with my climbing.  I keen to see what how my fitness has improved, steep walk-ins and climbing for 12 days should certainly of helped that's for sure! I could be pretty downbeat about not getting a 7a (there were a few which I could have ticked but weren't worth it other than to say I had ticked a 7a) but I'm keeping the positives in mind. The two points which I keep in mind are that I had fun and it was independent of ticking a 7a. Secondly that I'm plenty powerful enough to tick 7a and 7b but I'm not making the best use of that power through poor technique. 

Oh and the final point is that Prince's are the best biscuit in the world, but we improved them by spreading them with copious amounts of nutella! A big thanks to the boys; Joe, Ben, Danny and Ste! Just remember folks -  Maka da chalk, maka da move, maka da clip and you maka da climb! 

Getting the Sport Climbing bug...

Despite Tuesday's dismal forecast I managed to get out and get some climbing in.  Headed over to New Mills Torr after work with a few things in mind. Some of the crag is under a viaduct so stays dry most of the time.  It was pretty dry when I arrived and things looked positive, the Sun even came out! That's about as far as it got though.

I warmed up on a couple of routes I'd done before. Next up was the ever dry Viaduct Wall, E2 5b. I've tried this route a few times before, with the crux being a precarious mantle. Trying it about 10 times, I couldn't commit to making the move.  Having no one to spot me on to the mat was pretty unnerving and after about half an hour of attempts I decided to call it a day and try something else.

There are a few traverses at New Mills, ranging from V1 to V7.  Again, I'd tried a few of these before but not really put much effort in.  I decided to try the low girdle, which goes at about V6. The start is pretty hard, going from a good flake into to wide pinch and some really small foot holds. I've never been able to do these moves before, not even in isolation. After about half an hour I could do each move in isolation but linking them feels right at my limit.  I feel much stronger compared to last time I tried the moves, but it will probably take a couple of sessions to get the moves wired.

After about 3 hours I decided to call it a day, and headed back home.  I felt kind of disheartened by not getting Viaduct wall, but I knew the reasons why. I just couldn't commit to the crux moves without someone spotting me. If you don't fall lots on pads it can feel very alien the first time you try, and it feels very high despite it being less than the height of average indoor bouldering wall! In order to have the confidence to climb at your limit above pads (or one in this case) it's important to do it on a regular basis so it becomes comfortable.  It does highlight an area of weakness with my trad climbing though, commitment! Despite knowing I can make make the moves on E1/E2 and E3, I still find it tough to commit to them. I know I have the strength and power to make the moves but I start to get scared. This probably comes down to a fear of falling on gear so I better start falling on gear! I've got a post ready on this so I'll put it up when back from Spain.

Ste was keen for a routing session at MCC on Wednesday. After not having a training session for at least a week, nearly 2, I was a little apprehensive as to what I was going to achieve. We decided to do a pyramid session of 10 routes ( actually did 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6a). I was certainly pleased with the session, I hadn't lost any gains and I sent a 6c (felt pretty easy) which I'd previously really struggled on. With Spain in mind, and my goal of 5 7a's.

Thursday and time for a battering at the physio. Some more massaging out the knots and traction left me feeling a little sore. I was given some exercises to allow the nerve to move more easily. These are certainly helping.  With the weather looking good, I gave Joe a call to check if he fancied getting out. As always he was keen! We headed over to Castle Inn Quarry, just off the A55, for some bolt clipping. Castle Inn Quarry has got to be one of the easiest places in the UK to climb from (don't drive down the footpath though, even though that's what the guidebook describes I'm sure!). The crag forms the wall of the car park, you could belay from your boot if you wished.

With a good selection of routes, we warmed up on route 1 (5+), then route 2(6a). Next were 3 6c routes. I had put the draws in the two warm ups and, encouraged by Joe, put the draws in this route. It didn't occur to me until later that this would be my hardest sport onsight grade.  The lower section is fairly straight forward, the first two bolts being clipped stood on really good ledges. After a little wobble on the crux moves, telling Joe I was coming off, I clipped the chains. Joe put the draws in the next two routes, The Cakewalk and Cakewalk Direct. Flashing The Cakewalk I was feeling really good and enjoying the climbing. The final route of the day, Cakewalk Direct, went pretty well with crux done and a little roof to finish. This involves a few fierce little crimps and a big pull to clip the chains.  Feeling a little tired I rested and then went for it. Missing the hold I was off, and one of those fierce crimps had taken it's toll, a flapper of skin being the result.

A little gutted by the flapper but super happy at getting 2 6c's, and coming pretty close to a 3rd, I'd had a mega day!  Things are looking really good for Spain and I can't wait for Wednesday.

I'm really enjoying Sport climbing at the moment and I hope it will transfer to my trad climbing. Knowing I can onsight/flash 6c routes gives me that ability to think 'I know I can technically climb british 5b/c moves (and higher) confidently.

Tremadog

So as promised some pictures from our trip to Tremadog.  Had originally planned to go Saturday but the forecast looked much better for Sunday - glad we waited as it was!

After a steady drive over, my estimation of 1.5 hours was totally wrong, we got a parking ticket from Eric's and headed up.  We decided that something well with in our grade would be the best option. Previous multi-pitches I'd done were swing leads. This is where climbers take it in turn to lead each pitch. This time I would be leading the whole thing, so a few new techniques were tried out. As the day progressed things became much smoother and we took about 20 mins a pitch which isn't too bad!  We climed Hail Bebe, a lovely little VDiff. 

Next to this is a VS called One Step in the Clouds. On reaching the 2nd pitch, and large grass track, I decided to climb a section of One Step as it looked much more fun!

Hannah seconded the section of One Step in the Clouds. This was much better than the dirt track that forms the actual pitch of the route.

Left: Hannah making her way to the last but one stance and another tree belay.  The dirt track/2nd pitch can be seen below. Right: Me enjoying the warming spring sunshine and view out towards the coast.

All the faffing was worth it on leaving the penultinate belay. The final pitch is a great big curving flake with some fantastic exposure; nothing but space to the bottom of the crag some 80m below!  

Relishing the exposure, not bad for VDiff!

We headed back down for some lunch and decided to call it a day as we needed to head back and time was getting on. Tremadog is class though and we'll be back soon. Eric's Cafe has a campsite which will be being made use of for sure. There are lots more routes to tick off there all of a top quality. Keep you eyes peeled for more photos and posts of upcoming trips!



Hobson Moor Quarry and Changing Attitudes

Headed over to Hobson Moor Quarry on Friday.  I've been a couple of times now and never been all that impressed. I think this has probably got more to do with it all being relatively hard when compared to what I was leading at the time.

No one else was at there when we arrived and I had a small tick list that I wanted to get done. I was again trying to keep in mind that, if I didn't get these routes done that it was still a good day as I'd been out again.  First up was Gideon, HVS 5a. Before telling Meirion, the guy I was climbing with, what I had in mind he'd mentioned he'd seconded the route before and didn't think much to it, certainly not the 2 stars it got in the guide book.  I carried on regardless as! I certainly felt a little nervous. It's odd because I know I'm more than physically capable of 5a moves, but I just haven't climbed that many.

It took me a while to figure out the bottom section, an off balance arête with all the good jams and holds on the opposite side of where you feel in balance. Then you get a decent rest in a corner. Above this a jamming crack.  A bomber friend protected the moves and with good footholds, it was all over. I really enjoyed the route and it felt well with in my limit.

Meirion then climbed Hanging slab (E1/E2 5b depending on which guidebook you look at). I had initially wanted to lead this route, but Meirion was pretty keen for it so I let him have it (it also looked pretty chossy at the top).  He topped out without any dramas and I seconded it. The crux move felt pretty tough, a high right foot and low jam with the right hand and pull up for a decent horizontal break in the rock. The top was as suspected, if it had been a little better I think this would be a super quality route.

I took my time deciding the next route, I really wanted to do another HVS or E1. The only other E1 worth doing, according to the guide book at least, was Tighe's Arête, E1 5a.


The arête is delicate and quite low in the grade. A semi-crucial Friend in the slot gets in the way a little.

I got a good wire in and on arriving at the pocket the description was correct, the friend did get in the way slightly. Luckily my fingerboard sessions seem to have paid some dividends as with the friend in the slot, I could still hold it as a 2 finger pocket.  A few more moves and it was all done.  It's a little run out at the top (hence E1) but felt fairly easy. I felt pretty pleased, two E1s in less than week, that's the most I've ever done.  I can hear people already, two's not very many, and I agree but it's better than anything before and hence progress!

Tighe's Arête E1 5a. The friend in the slot is the last piece of gear to the top, easy climbing remains a calm approach is required. (Image from UKClimbing user Architectonic). 

Meirion then climbed Bring Me Sunshine, E2 5c, which I did a few years ago.  It felt a hell of lot easier this time than when I lead it. Obviously having a rope above you always helps, but I'm inclined to believe it's a changing mindset. I'm starting to get some confidence in my own ability which means I'm more realxed while climbing and not gripping on for dear life with every move. This then allows me to enjoy the climbing as opposed to fearing it, again making me more relaxed. This is a positive feedback


To finish off I got on Gideonite, HVS 5a. I don't think this route has seen more attention of late, it was little green and had quite a few cobwebs. After the previous routes a felt pretty confident. It didn't take me long before I was topping out and bringing up Meirion. The outcome of the day for me was that I can probably climb 5b/c moves and most HVS's, so why haven't I?

I think it's because I was scared of not being able to, of failing at a route. The odd thing about that is by continually focusing on failure then this became the most likely outcome (You can't think about what you don't want to think about without thinking about it!). So by thinking to myself, I really don't want to fail, the first thing I think about is failure (don't think about a big pink elephant - I bet a picture of a big pink elephant just popped in to your head?).

Instead, by changing my self talk to: I want to succeed, I can succeed, I will succeed,  then this becomes the more probable outcome. There is, of course, no point in doing this just at the bottom of a route - these changes must take place over time. By listening to our self talk and attempting to change it, you no longer have to worry actively thinking it. By having a positive outlook, it gives me an increased mental capacity to think actively about my climbing.

This may seem at odds with the key to success is failure but it isn't. Just because we're failing doesn't mean we won't succeed.  But being afraid of failure breeds failure. We are so scared of failing that we decide to not bother trying. The number of times I used to say, oh I'm happy just leading VS (sound familiar?) is truly astounding.  I'm not though, I want to be able to climb hard trad routes (and sport routes and boulder problems and alpine faces....the list goes on!). By putting into practice a few mental strategies, by getting out and by not being afraid of failure I've achieved more in the past month than I have in about 6 years of climbing. I've already lead half the number routes I did last year and my average grade has already gone up 1 bracket (At this rate I'll be onsighting E10 by next year; a slightly tenuous extrapolation I think). One thing's for sure: It's going to be an interesting year!

Also went out to Tremadog for the first time yesterday with Hannah. Was a great day and I'm going to post about it this evening with some pictures.