Long Tall Sally, Knight's Move and White Wall

With Weather being so nice, I couldn't resist getting out. Me and Andy left Walsall about 9.00am and headed to Burbage. After writing the blog post about using your head to climb harder, I thought this was the perfect opportunity to put a few of the strategies in to practice. In Particular - separating outcome and happiness; today I was going to be happy with just being out, it didn't matter what I climbed.  I still had the desire to do a couple of specific routes, but if I didn't it wasn't going to affect if I had a good day or not.

On our arrival we walked over to Knight's Move and and gave it a whirl. I was certainly feeling the pressure on the lead, this route (as well as many others) have been routes on my tick list (list of routes which you want to complete, ticking them off once you have) for years. I had to keep telling myself I was OK, I can do this, it's well within my grasp (no pun intended). Allow positive self talk to be in control, this will allow you to be successful. I topped out, not pumped and feeling pretty cool.  After Andy being in Oz for the last few months, this was his first trip out this year climbing but he held his own and seconded the route. He had a moment on the crux where he tried the move, but didn't make it. Eventually after a few minutes, he got past the crux.  He knew what to do, just didn't want to do it. With trad, this can be very much in our mindset. With each move we make, we move further away from out gear and safety into the unknown. This is why trad climbing, and onsight climbing, can leave you felling very mentally exhausted. By going out and continually putting ourselves in these situations, we get used to the pressure and can therefore cope more easily with it. This then allows us to move forward, increasing our leading grade.

 Topping out on Knights Move, HVS 5a, Burbage North.

After some refreshments (we had only brought half a litre of water between us - not good) we headed down to Long Tall Sally. Again, another route I've wanted to do for a number of years. When we arrived, a few lads were already trying it. They decided to let us have a go as their leader couldn't figure out the start moves.  After making the bottom unnecessarily difficult for myself, I got into a good rest position before trying the crux.  After trying the moves a few times, I eventually got through it. The guide book description of 'requires faith in friction' was certainly correct.  Andy then seconded, again with minimal fuss. He also found the crux moves committing. It's an unusual feeling achieving a goal which you've had for years.It's very rewarding as you've done it, but a little sobering. You ask yourself the question 'Why did I wait so long to do that?'. There is no time like the present, stop saving routes (or other specific goals) for a certain time. Instead get on with it and accept that failure may be an outcome, however you will then know what you need to do to succeed. 

Through the crux moves of Long Tall Sally, E1 5b.

I decided I want a go at the Sentinal (E2 5c). I got to the crux and with failing strength and sweaty fingers I down climbed for a rest. I then decided I didn't fancy it so stripped the route. After making the obligatory excuses (the rock is too hot, I'm tired, I haven't had much water today...) It came down to not feeling that I was strong enough to hold on and chalk up through the crux moves.  I was happy about down climbing it to a point of rest. This can be very important in onsight climbing, making the difference between completing a route and totally blowing it.

Satrting the big, powerful moves at the top of The Sentinal, E2 5c.

Realising I was getting burnt ( in March!) and the lack of fluids, we headed to Hathersage to resupply and decide what to do next.  An ice-cream and J20 later, we were on our way back up the hill to millstone. I was keen for putting a rope down White Wall (E5 6b). I managed the bottom section OK, and worked out the initial moves. The crux is pretty baffling though. You come into two pretty good, if a little slopey, pockets and then make a big move to a crack which is about 3 or feet above your head. I have a move for it but it's really powerful. I'll be back soon to try it again, so watch this space.