Consenting Adults.

A distinct lack of posting has been due to work becoming the main focus for a few days with a submission deadline looming.  So I didn't get any more training in at the wall after Tuesdays session either.  That being said, I was still mentally training, every moment I had free I was running through the moves on consenting, each time thinking what it was going to feel like on Sunday.

Again I made sure I had an early night, giving myself the best chance of success. Picked Joe, Tom and Chi up (minus his lunch for the day - numpty!). The weather was pretty awesome and I felt pretty relaxed. I knew the moves I just needed to do it.

Unlike last week we weren't the first at the crag (we weren't even the second) despite the early arrival.  Not surprising considering it was a Sunday and the weather looked half decent.  It turned out to be a pretty warm day; the down jackets and numerous layers we'd all brought certainly being overkill.

After some warming up the theraband we got in the queue for consenting. I felt pretty nervous at this point. With so many people wanting to get on it what if I couldn't do it, people would be getting pissed with me hanging about trying to get up the thing. The doubts started to creep in, maybe I should let these other folks go, they were just using it as a warm up route. I could wait for them, and the others then get on it. What about if I did get up it but I didn't look solid - they'd know I wasn't really a 7a climber....Fuck that actually, I've rested for the last 4 days, I've slept well, I've been going over the moves all week. I can do this, I'm strong enough, I can do this. And so what if I blow it, they can wait - I have just as much right to be here as them. So what if I wobble my way up it, the key to success is failure, if I don't do it now I never will! Stop thinking so much about them and focus on what you want!

I gave Joe a belay to put the draws in. I used this to watch Joe and see the moves again worried that I had been confusing the moves all week. I hadn't, which was a relief.

The adrenaline was pumping now. With an elevated heart rate and feeling a shaky I tied in . I get this with trad at times, but this is usually due to the scare factor (falling and the gear ripping and hitting the ground). With sport climbing this fear factor is reduced; the fear is now about blowing the redpoint having built myself up to this point all week.  One final look, and one final 'you can do this' and I was off.

Small crimp with the right hand, sidepull with the left, move up to the Jug and clip the first bolt.  Chalk up and chill out (don't over grip Jay - you'll pump out). Match the jug and make the second clip. Now go: gaston with the left, hight right foot, straight up to the pinch with the right. Get the next side pull, don't hang around here. Over the bulge with the right, straight arm and clip the next bolt. Go again to the next Jug. Chalk up and shake out again you've got this Jay, just take it easy and breath. Go again, sidepull with the right again, good footholds and all the way up to the spike and another rest. Make the clip, good side pull with the right, crappy sidepull with the left, another high foot into the massive under cut and clip the chains. Consenting done, BOOM! Warm-up, 1st route of the day, 1st 7a. And it felt good, I felt good, that's how it was supposed to feel.

I'd been thinking about the above sequence all week, and it had paid off.  Joe gave me loads of encouragement all the way so thanks to him as well! Also for asking me to Malham the week before and just generally being a good guy to climb with. Don't under estimate having someone with the right attitude about you when you want to achieve your goals!

It's hard to describe the relief and elation of ticking a goal which I've had for years. Climbing 7a always seemed so far off and yet here I was, at Malham, having ticked one after 1 session working it. It wasn't about being some extra special climber or having some secret. I had to stop making excuses about why I couldn't do it and just get out there and try one. Think of reasons why you can do something, not why you can't.

I had a go at Rose Coronary, another 7a, but couldn't figure out the crux sequence. Worked it for the rest of the day but didn't make much progress on it. I probably wasn't giving it my all if I'm being honest.  I could have got it as it's a little easier than consenting, just a few hard crux moves and it's done. I think I was still enjoying the fact I ticked one 7a to be to bothered about getting another. I was just enjoying the moment and not beating myself up that I couldn't get it.


Where next then? Well start consolidating 7a's so that I can say I'm a 7a climber.  Malham has plenty so I'll keep working those for time being. Kilnsey will soon be ready to climb at so there a more routes there at the 6c/7a grade range.

Weather permitting I'm going trad climbing next weekend so I've got a few routes in mind, will post with a list of what  soon! My shunt turned up last week so if I can't find anyone to climb with at the weekend I'm going to get out and start working some E5/6s

The main point of the last few weeks is this - get out there! Training is an important part of climbing, but don't forget that it's just that: training. The climbing wall is a great place to get strong and fit, but if you have dream routes or a tick list then get out there and try them! If they seem so far away that it's not worth trying then try other routes that will help you progress towards that goal.  I have made excuses and held myself back for years, yesterday I took one step towards pushing myself on and to achieving what I really want from climbing.

Although this blog is about climbing, all the ideas and concepts transfer to any aspect of our lives. If we allow our worries and fears to dictate play we will never achieve what we are truly capable of. If we instead understand that these fears are only normal (most people are worried about failing) and that we can use them to our advantage, then we can all achieve more than we thought possible.Just remember, failure is the key to success!