Keen Bean

Quick update: Going to Malham this weekend with a few lads from the climbing wall, should be good, I'm keen to get on a 7a and see how the training is going. I'm off to El Chorro on April 10th and I want to tick at least one 7a, red-point or onsight. Onsighting it would be mega cool but I'm not putting to much on it, I'll just be pleased with getting one ticked.

Wall session this evening, break down is:

Warm up (15-30 mins): increase heart rate with star jumps ( look's silly but really helps with preventing flash pump) and thera-band work. Gentle stretching of forearms, neck shoulders and fingers.

Lead 10 routes ( 1.5 hrs): Lead 5+/6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6c (fell off), 6a, 6c ( 1/3 completed) finished on 6a, 6a+.
so that's only 7. Probably could have done 3 more around 6a.

I found that I'm fine if I have plenty of rest (know this from previous sessions), or if the climbing is not sustained then I can climb a few 6b+s. But if I just alternate with climbing partner (rest time of around 5 mins) then I'm boxed.

There are two options: 3x3s or do another 10 routes, 8 at 6b/+ and at least 2 at 6c.  The 3x3s are explained in Robbie Phillips' Article on UKC. Either way I'm getting about the same volume but I think the 3x3s are probably more beneficial, they're just really hard but - no pain no gain.

Although I'm just starting this blog I've been training on and off for the last couple of months (beastmaker board sessions, circuits and leading). Before that I'd had a lay off of around 3-4 months with a A4 pulley injury (there's a good review of pulley injuries on Dave MacLeod's blog ).  On my return to climbing, leading a 5+ was hard work both physically and mentally. After 2 months I'm at 6b+, knocking on 6c with my sights firmly set on 7a so I'm pretty pleased with progress but, I also know that if I want to achieve my goal then lots more needs to be done.

Climbing again tomorrow (circuits or finger board session) and Thursday (routing).  Will let you know how it goes and post the workout's I've done.

Any feedback is appreciated!