I'm following the beastmaker boys beginner workout (aimed at climbers up to font 6c/V5). This consists of a 15 min warm up of your choice followed by sets of 7sec hangs/3sec rest for 1 min. 3 min rest and repeat up to 3 times. Holds are 4 finger open, 3 finger pocket and 35 deg. sloper.
I managed it twice through, before my form started to really flag so called it a day at that point. That's one thing I've learnt over the last 12 months away from this training, that having good form is better than being able to do more low quality reps. By stopping before you reach absolute failure you recover quicker, which means you can train more often, in turn helping us get to our goals quicker. Maybe more on that at a later date, as initially it seemed like a strategy that wouldn't produce results but it has, well for me anyway.
So my goals are this for the next 4 weeks:
(1) Focus on regaining some finger strength using the above plan. Follow this for 4 weeks with review at the end of each week and adjust accordingly.
(2) During weekly climbing session get lots of mileage in and stick to the easy climbs. Basically start to learn to climb again, focus on not over gripping, clipping comfortable position and being as efficient as possible. Fall practice every session and ENJOY myself.
(3) Isolation exercises to maintain a proportioned and balanced body. It would be a shame to have spent a long time balancing out my body to only go and ruin it by not doing just a few exercises after each board session to maintain it. I'll be alternating between a 5 rep/2-3 min rest and 21 rep/30-60s rest schemes as I want to build power and endurance but maintain size (no hypertrophy).
I haven't decided what kind of progression I will add in as I have no idea what kind of time frame I'm looking at to see real progression.
For anyone wondering, this is what the board looks like! I think I did a post about it ages ago but never put up any pictures. If anyone wants any sizes or drawings then let me know but I think it's probably fairly obvious from the shots.
And finally I think I have some psyche for climbing, I might start training at the right time and I might actually achieve a few more ticks this year...who knows! I'm hoping to post once a week. I've noticed there are a lot of youtube communities out there that do an update once a week (like all the homebrewers that do a homebrew wednesday) So thought it might be cool to try and get a Training Monday or homeboard Sunday going. We'll see, might take off. Either way I'll keep anyone who's interested updated.
