Climbing Sucks...at the moment!

Went to holyhead mountain at the weekend and got spanked! I climbed some S on the left hand side of the crag and was totally uninspired. So thought I would have a go at King Bee Crack, a classic HVS.

I got about half way, came off boxed and just couldn't be bothered with evening trying it from there. I lowered down and thought I'd go again. The climbing wasn't that hard, sustained but still HVS. I just couldn't be bothered. Psyche is at an all time low!  Thinking about why this might be has lead me to ask why my mindset has changed from the start of the year - feeling confident - to now.

With such a crappy weather this summer, whenever it's good I've 'had' to get out. This requirement has turned climbing into a chore again. It's not fun and I've started to place an outcome on day. e.g. if I don't lead at least 1 HVS it's been a waste of a day.

I've also stopped training which has left me feeling weak and unfit.  I'm not sure if this is actually the case, it must have some effect but not sure if it's as big as I'm making out. And falling, I just won't at the moment.  All in all my head is in an awful place. So it's time to have a break from climbing, this is probably only a few days where the weather is good and I don't go out climbing to get the desire to go and and just climb for fun - not just because the weather is good.

I also want to get fit! With winter approaching (seems a long way off but it will be here sooner than I think) I want to feel at fit as possible.  I've been reading Mark Twight's book Extreme Alpinism and it's got me psyched for training and getting seriously fit!  So I'm going to join the gym again and start weight training to work on some aspects of my physique which are causing me problems. I'll also be training at the wall. The final update is that I'm moving my blog to here. So check back for updates if your interested.

Fingers crossed normal service will resume soon!

A Few Classics

It’s been a while since I posted anything so I thought I’d better get back to it. I've been out reasonably regularly despite the weather but not often enough to feel comfortable.  Since my last post I’ve managed to get out for 11 days’ worth of climbing. That’s only 20% and for a few of those days we ended up just walking as the weather crapped out on the walk in.

Despite this lack of good weather, and an over-riding lack of psyche to get out, there have been a few more memorable routes. 

Tremadog is owned by the BMC and sits on the road between Caernarfon and Beddgelert.  Arriving at Eric’s café and camp site, a traditional stopping place for climbers which has been written in to climbing folk law, the best of the crags, Craig Bwlch y Moch, towers above.  As you make your way up, you might be deceived in to thinking you’ve arrived at the wrong place or you’ve been sand-bagged by a fellow climber.  The trees hide the great lines above, instead a series of ugly looking grooves run upwards through overhangs. But do not fear, the ochre slab and the line of Vector giving some indication as to what waits above for the intrepid leader. 

Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog), with the imposing Vector bu tress in the centre. Image taken from here.

Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate.

With the weather looking good for Tremadog Hannah, Ben and myself decided we’d head out. After having to turn round after about 5 miles due to Ben’s shiny new half ropes still being in his bedroom, we made our way under some dark rain clouds, and through an utter deluge just past Chester.  Arriving at Eric’s Café, paying our £1 parking fee and gearing up, we headed up to plum buttress and the start of Christmas Curry

Wanting to lead the crux pitch meant I’d be leading first.  Going slightly past the belay, the other two followed quickly and Ben carried on to with 2^nd pitch quickly.

Off up the first pitch of Christmas Curry.

Ben leaving the belay. 

A final look at the guide book, taking note not to take the initially easier, lower, traverse as this leads to the 5b crux of The Plumb. It all looked pretty thin for HS 4b but I made steady progress.  Looking at the higher traverse I elected to stay a little lower. After traversing for a few meters I realised this was the exact description the guidebook suggested I avoided – I did get a good look at the 5b crux of The Plumb though. 

After making what feels like some thin moves for 4b, you head right for the Micah Eliminate finish. This comprised of climbing the arête to the top. On a fine day a lovely prospect, on a windy day a little less so. I always find arêtes a little scary and this one was no exception. The holds are positive and it was a joy to climb, perhaps retrospectively. Whatever grade you climb, I think this should be on everyone’s tick list.  It was great to tick and a route I’d been waiting years to do.

Stepping on to the arête, the exposure getting the old ticker going!  

One Step in the Clouds

After a spot of food we headed off to Vector Buttress. One Step is a classic VS 4c which finds a line of weakness up the Vector Buttress.  The first couple of pitches follow a series of short groves, past a large tree to a prominent V groove. I lead the first, making my way up an award V groove to the tree and the best runner on the route.  Next a crack bars progress. A few slippery hand jams and some torquing of the feet lead to a massive flake belay.  I thought the jams were great, the crack providing the most interesting part of the pitch! Hannah and Ben elected to ignore the crack and use some small crimps and bridge the corner – more jamming practise for these two!  At this point, the upper section of the climb is still out of view.  After swapping gear and checking the guide Ben lead off.  Even after a few meters are gained, all does not become apparent – Ben asking for the description again just to double check.  The good initial rightward crack peters out and your left looking at a rather blank and featureless slab of dolerite – are you sure this VS? 

Continuing rightwards, small holds present and the line becomes clearer.  Again the exposure arrives quickly, the pitch below giving no indication. This section of bold climbing is broken by a large flake and a moment of respite, giving you chance to look at the expanse of space between you and the ground below.  A look further up reveals more apparently blank rock.

A positive approach is rewarded with some holds and a good runner or two. For those who cannot stand the intricate and intense climbing any longer, an escape into Hail Bebe can be made but composure will be rewarded;  if you’ve made it this far the climbing above is no harder.  Keep breathing and the sanctuary of the belay arrives, giving you time to savour experience sat on the edge of the mighty vector buttress. 

The final pitch shares the same ground as Hail Bebe - a quality, if much more amenable, VD. Pad up the slab to a large diagonal flake, place a runner, and romp along this to the final belay. 

Heading back down,  having climbed two classic routes – beer o’clock was called and we headed to the pub to bask in our glory. 

BAW’s Crawl

Gritstone at the best of times has some very esoteric routes and moves. If you haven’t climbed on it ‘easy’ routes can be very perplexing, especially if you haven’t learnt the mystical art of jamming.

I hadn’t climbed on the grit since April/May so decided that a steady approach was the way to go. After climbing Flying Buttress (3* VD), Holly Bush Crack (3* VD) and Balcony Buttress (3* S 4a) we headed to BAWs Crawl (3* HVS 5a).  Stood at the bottom, the roof looks pretty intimidating, but I had an idea of how to Climb it.

Baw's Crawl (3* HVS 5a), the dotted line shows the line the route takes. Image taken from here.

After placing some gear I tried to hang on and heel hook my way along the shelf below the roof, eventually, lying feet first on the shelf and shuffling my bum along until I hit the flake and stepped out on to the final slab. This is certainly a move I’ve never done before and not sure how often I will in the future but it’s a great climb and the crux is well protected!

Light House Arête

Gogarth is a very unique experience.  It is generally bold, sparsely protected with some suspect rock.  This results in climbers needing a cool, controlled approach – not a place to hammer out the basics.  The first time 

I climbed here, with Andy, can be described as nothing less than an Epic.  After being told A Dream of White Horses was too much too soon for us, we headed there to prove the doubters wrong.  In hindsight, what a wonderful thing it is, it most certainly was. After leaving one rope at the Ab station, dropping gear and eventually escaping at the penultimate belay the experience left a rather salty taste in my mouth. 

Since then I have wanted to go back and give Gogarth another go, to conquer the fear that it left me with.  

After two more years of climbing, and lots more multi-pitching and learning the ropes (every pun intended), I thought I might just about to be ready to face my demons.  This was perhaps further compounded as it was going to be Hannah’s first sea cliff experience – a good choice? Only time would tell.

Getting there early, the weather looked good so we parked up and headed down.  We picked lighthouse arête as it was described as the first route that should be done in your Gogarth career. It was also surrounded by other routes which we could have a go at afterwards. 

Setting the abseil up, the adrenalin was coursing through my veins.  Memories of Dream surfacing, more like a distant nightmare.  Abbing in things only got worse, but at least we had both ropes this time and I knew how to set-up a hanging belay!  After a short breakdown in communication, our ‘numbered pull on the rope system’ worked and Hannah headed down to the sea level ledge and we sorted ropes. 

Setting up the abseil to get to the starting ledge 50m below.

The abseil in, not psyched!

By now the sweat was pouring down my forehead, the anxiety start to present with obvious physical symptoms. I needed to start climbing, to stop thinking and just get on with it – the thought of doing something is usually much worse than actually doing it! I knew I could climb it, VS 4c it’s not a problem. Just being here, way down here and the only way out is all the way up there. I was just Up there, why have I come down here – I was safe up there!

Starting out, the route traverses left from the belay and up to the arête proper.  This was fairly easy and it was good to be climbing, good to stop thinking. Hannah followed and we swapped at the belay – her enjoyment seeming a lot more than mine.  Was I enjoying it? Doesn’t matter, got to climb it now. 

The view from the first belay, the rest of Castell Helen round to the Left.

The next Pitch looked a little more spicy. From the belay you traverse right and enter a crack. Gear is all good and you belay just below a roof, which looked like the crux.  Now I was starting to flow, things felt in control again, I was enjoying it again.  The demons were being banished. 

Hannah making her way to the first belay

At the belay (right), showing sign she might enjoy this sea cliff malarkey!

Hannah arrived, smiling as always and giving positive encouragement. It’s good to have someone who continually gives you a boost when your climbing, tells you your OK when you get a bit panicked. From the belay a roof and corner wait above. Place some gear, pull through the roof on good holds and bridge up the corner, savouring the wild exposure and awesome position – not bad this for VS.  The final pitch is a plod back to the abseil point. 

As we arrived a number of people were just abbing in.  We called it a day as they were going on the route we were going to do next, Rap VS 4c, and we were off for a Sunday roast at my sisters just outside Bangor. 

If you want a route that’s fairly easy but with all the exposure that both Gogarth and sea cliff climbing brings, then this route is certainly recommended!

Hannah seconding pitch 2, loving the exposure and the climbing.

We headed to Cornwall last week and Moonraker, listed as possibly the best HVS in England.  I'll write a separate post for this one as it was such an awesome route. 

 

"When you've given everything, what do you have left?"

Training is going well, although this endurance phase is pretty boring, never really sure if your achieving much as your not at your limit, or that's the way it feels. This is no doubt due to being at about 50% pump for the whole session. When you train power endurance, or strength, you know your pushing it as you keep falling off. at the moment the whole point is not to fall off but to get loads of mileage.  I think I'm getting it about right though.

There is a really interesting video on UKC at the moment by Tyler Stableford about Steve House, an american Alpinist who has put up some very hard and extreme routes  including a recent climb on the Central Pillar of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. He has also written a book Beyound the Mountain. Another one for the reading list I think.  Check out the review here

Training Cycle

After an enjoyable weekend (I forgot to add my previous post until this morning) in London it's time to get the training on the go again.

After a little bit of thought, and figuring out dates etc, I've decided that a meso-cycle will probably suit me best.  Eric Horst talks about these in his book, Training for Climbing. In particular he talks about two modes, 4-3-2-1 or a 3-2-1 cycle.

The 4-3-2-1 cycle is usually used by climbers who are training properly for the first time and is used to introduce them to periodization. He suggest using a 3-2-1 cycle for climbers who have used periodization before. I've tried the 3-2-1 cycle before and have never really felt that any of the phases are long enough.

With that in mind I plan on doing a 3-3-3 cycle, broken down as such:

3 weeks Endurance, 3/4 session per week.  This is then split into a two week endurance phase and a strength power phase. 

3 weeks Power Endurance Phase, 3 session per week.  This phase is designed such that I'll be operating near my maximum for most the session but still performing a high number of movements. This will allow me to build local forearm endurance the result being an increase capillary density and luminal diameter. This changes will enable me to keep climbing in a pumped state.    

3 weeks Strength Phase (increase in power), 3 session per week.  This phase is a lower volume but close to my maximum. I'll also be adding in the use of a finger board.  I'll still be working the power endurance aspect but adding in the fingerboard as opposed to bouldering for example. 

This should take me up to the end of August and a trip to Ceuse.  

We had our first session yesterday and it went pretty well and am going again this evening.  I've got to write down some clear goals again but I'll put these up once I've done them.

This will be the first time I've had such a detailed training plan so it will be very interesting to see how it works.  I have a good feeling that it will be better than my previous attempts which have had some general structure but were quite fluid.  This way I can really find out what my weaknesses are and see some clear improvement.

  

Rain, Rain, Go away!

Will we ever have a proper summer? It would appear not.  With the weather looking pretty poor it's time to bite the bullet and get back indoors. I've been putting it off for a few weeks now but, with a planned trip to Ceuse in August with Joe and Hannah, the time has come to start suffering some pain again! I think this gives me about 8 weeks to get fit. I really want to be feeling super fit for this trip so, as much as I don't want, I need to sit down and put a proper training plan together. I think the overriding theme will be lots of climbing and lots of falling.  Ceuse sports some well spaced bolts by all accounts so I want to be well prepared mentally for it; it's also long and the 'easy' routes aren't that easy!  I'm looking forward to it though! This should also put me in good shape for the grit this year.


Previously, around that time of year, I haven't done much climbing or training so as the grit starts to come in to season again I'm usually not at my peak (have I ever been?), both physically and mentally. It's going to be interesting to get out and see what I can achieve on grit.  


I've also received a copy of  Extreme Alpinism: Climb Light, Fast, and High by Mark Twight.  This is THE book to have on getting yourself in shape for alpine climbing. A cursory glance last night showed it has everything you need to be in the best physical and mental shape you need to be in to meet the demands of high level alpinism. It has whole section on physical training so I plan on incorporating some of it into my training regime as I think I could probably do with increasing my base level of fitness and endurance.


Although we've just had the summer solstice my mind is drifting towards the winter already. By putting together an effective training program each stage will build upon the last and it should be a very fruitful 6 months.

We're off to London this weekend to visit a friend, so have 4 hours to kill on the coach journey. A perfect opportunity to start putting together some training goals etc.

Enjoy your weekend folks!

Must Try Harder...Back to The Training Board

So I've finally got round to writing an update. It's been a while as I've lost a little momentum with work so had to concentrate on that.  There have been some ups and downs recently but I'm certainly happier with my climbing in general, it's moving forward albeit at a rather slowed pace (again).

Kilnsey Crag in the morning light, check out that roof!

The last time I posted I'd been to the lakes and had a good weekend; ticking MGC being the highlight. A few weeks ago myself and Joe headed to Kilnsey. Unfortunately, in terms of climbing prospects at least,  I had been out the night before. Although I didn't have too much to drink I didn't get to bed until 3. Picking up Joe at 8 was a real struggle but I managed it, just about. Luckily Joe had been out the previous night so he wasn't feeling his best either.

Kilnsey is another limestone crag in Yorkshire and is appears less intimidating than Malham in scale. Although the huge roof at it's top looks pretty damn intimidating! It also breeds a different style of climbing. Malham (WHEY!!!!) is all about sidepulls and using the foot holds to figure out a sequence.  Kilnsey on the other hand has reasonable foot holds, fewer sidepulls but very powerful moves.  I though this would suit my style - how wrong can 1 man be? Well pretty damn wrong. After warming up (and fannying about going to use the toilet in the village)  we got on Open road (6c). Joe put the draws in and I tied in - that was about as sucessful as the day got! I don't very often get freaked out by climbing, I lack confidence in doing the moves, but not freaked out. This was one of those days - pulling on draws, shouting take, worrying about if my knot was safe - just about everything that I could possibly worry about.

Enter my mental strategies which I've spoken about.  It was OK because I was out, enjoying myself and climbing a certain grade isn't the aim of the game.  


We stripped the route and moved on. I decided I'd put the draws into Direct flight (7a+) and work this instead.  Clip sticking my way up the route (use a device to clip yourself and the rope into the bolts from the bolt below) I got to the anchors and felt a little better. I still didn't have the sequence dialled so I was going to keep top roping it. On my second go working the route I could barely get off the ground and despite being on a top rope felt pretty spooked out again.  I stripped the route and decided to call it a day.  Joe hadn't faired much better all day (too much meat and beer at a BBQ the day before) so we sacked it off and went to get some organic ice-cream. This was the best tick of the day!

I felt pretty dejected by it all but on reflection it was perhaps a likely outcome.  I hadn't climbed at the venue before and I was tired and hunger over.  This probably wouldn't have been such a problem had I not been climbing at what is extensible my current limit. I've also been pretty slack on the training front, not wanting to waste money on climbing indoors when it could be used to get outside! Excuses aside I still felt pretty down beat about my climbing.

Although I keep saying failure is the key to success, it should be because it's at my limit not because I'm tired and hungover. Keeping yourself accountable requires you to be objective about the reasons why we didn't succeed, not making up excuses for why we are allowed to fail!

That was most definitely the low point of the last few weeks. It can be hard to use failures as motivation to improve of keep pushing yourself. Why not just give up, that way we don't have to feel the hardship of not achieving. This attitude is short-sighted, giving up leads to long term unhappiness as we never truly realise (or even get close to) our full potential.  With a renewed focus to keep getting out on the real rock and varying the styles of climbing the last few weeks have been better.

A trip to North Wales with Joe and Jon for the weekend came next.  With some suspect looking weather we decided to head to Lower Pen Trywn (LPT as it's affectionately known).  While waiting for the tide to head out Jon bouldered at the Parisella's cave while me and Joe headed to Upper Pen Trywn to try Axel Attack (7a), With Joe almost getting the onsight.  I on the other hand could barely get off the ground.  I felt totally weak and drained so I left Joe to it and just belayed. Heading down to LPT we got on what was supposed to be a 2 star 6b Kaffe Fasset. After some scary climbing (grass holds are always cool!) I clipped the chains and lowered off.  Joe had a similar experience; concluding that this Kaffe Fasset was definitely monotone brown! Finishing off with under the board walk (6c) and top roping Face Race (7a+).  The climbing at LPT is different again and although I was initially under whelmed, I'm quite keen to go back.

Heading over to Llanberis the plan was to go bouldering.  We had our breakfast in the pass, parking up and cooking it just next to the roadside boulders is a pretty sweet way to start the day! The outcome of a few hours walking and all of about 4 problems is that I'm not very strong at the moment, anything above V4 feels pretty damn hard.  We sacked it off and headed over to the slate and get on gnat attack (E1 5b). This route is awesome and I can't recommend it enough! The description is


"A delicate line up the right hand edge of the slab. Climb carefully to a break then traverse rightwards to the first bolt. Thin moves (harder for the short) lead up to the second bolt, followed by an easier run-out to the top."

Gnat Attack, E1 5b, Bus Stop Quarry Gwynedd. The 3 red dots show the two bolts
and the lower off - it's a little run out (photo taken from Life at the End of a Rope Blog). 

I really enjoyed climbing it and felt pretty steady on it.  The two run out sections are easy but it could be easy to get spooked out and drop it. I didn't realise just how run out it was until I was lowering off, thanks Jon for pointing me at it! 

With work not going too well I had to ease off the climbing during the week and concentrate on work. I was pretty worried that this would really affect my climbing but a weekend in the lakes quelled that fear to some extent. Leading another E1 at Shepherd's Crag in the lakes. We headed up to Borrowdale for the jubilee weekend: myself, Hannah, Jen, Matt, Andy and Daz.  Due to lack of signal we met up with Andy, Daz and Matt on the Saturday.  

As my sister, Jen, had never been climbing before we started out at Shepherd's Crag on some easy angled slabs which I hadn't done before either on the Thursday. After she'd had a taste I had a go at Conclusion (E1 5b).  The lower section is the crux, after which the climbing eases to about HVS.  Hannah seconded the route clean with some interesting Bum Shuffle technique to get over the first roof.  

We headed up to the Napes to do needle ridge to give my sister an idea of what a full mountain day is like.  After being a apprehensive due to some narrow approach paths she cruised it, enjoying the exposure and making easy work of the climbing. The decent from the top of Napes crag, appropriately named Great Hell Gate, is rather interesting and my sister found it..well..less enjoyable than the climbing.  Once we got down we headed to Keswick for some Pub grub and well earned pint!

And that's about it.  With work busy at the moment I'm finding it hard to fit in training 3 times a week as well as going out, so I've prioritised getting out at least once a week to keep my hand in. This should, at the very least, keep me shape. The plan is to consolidate the grades of E1/HVS and 6c-7a.  Then once work eases off hit the training hard again.  With a trip to Ceuse on the horizon I'm super keen to get back to it, despite it meaning I have to spend more time indoors!

The last few weeks has also shown me that getting pissed and not enough sleep the night before you go climbing really doesn't help, so why do I do it?  Make a choice about what you really want and stick to it! After the couple of E1s I've lead this year, with some time in between them, I finally feel like I've broken the infamous E barrier.  Now climbing E5 doesn't seem like the insurmountable task it did before.  I still need to actually get on some; had a play on White Wall in the Peak but that's it.  Fingers crossed for some decent weather again! I want to get back on the training though because I'm not feeling as fit or as strong as I did after Spain it just making it part of my routine again - watch this space!

Crack Addict

So after what feels like an age I've finally gotten round to writing a blog update. Luckily for you this isn't it. I will post it very soon though so watch this space!  

For those of you out there that would like to improve your climbing (don't we all?) then check out this series of videos from Wild Country and the crack climbing masters Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, A.K.A The Wide Boyz. For those who don't have a crack habit then you should get one, it's very addictive and great fun!  If anyone can name all the peak district cracks they're on then I'll buy you a pint - answers on a comment. 



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 1 - Finger Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 2 - Hand Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 3 - Fist Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 4 - Offwidth Cracks - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Crack School Episode 5 - Gear and Gear Placement - by Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.



Wild Country Crack School - Episode 6 - Taping - By Tom Randall And Pete Whittaker from Wild Country on Vimeo.