4 week goals

Just finished my first board session. First off man are my fingers weak! And that's the reason why I want to get back to it. Now is the perfect opportunity.

I'm following the beastmaker boys beginner workout (aimed at climbers up to font 6c/V5). This consists of a 15 min warm up of your choice followed by sets of 7sec hangs/3sec rest for 1 min. 3 min rest and repeat up to 3 times. Holds are 4 finger open, 3 finger pocket and 35 deg. sloper.

I managed it twice through, before my form started to really flag so called it a day at that point. That's one thing I've learnt over the last 12 months away from this training, that having good form is better than being able to do more low quality reps. By stopping before you reach absolute failure you recover quicker, which means you can train more often, in turn helping us get to our goals quicker. Maybe more on that at a later date, as initially it seemed like a strategy that wouldn't produce results but it has, well for me anyway.

So my goals are this for the next 4 weeks:

(1) Focus on regaining some finger strength using the above plan.  Follow this for 4 weeks with review at the end of each week and adjust accordingly.

(2) During weekly climbing session get lots of mileage in and stick to the easy climbs. Basically start to learn to climb again, focus on not over gripping, clipping comfortable position and being as efficient as possible. Fall practice every session and ENJOY myself.

(3) Isolation exercises to maintain a proportioned and balanced body.  It would be a shame to have spent a long time balancing out my body to only go and ruin it by not doing just a few exercises after each board session to maintain it.  I'll be alternating between a 5 rep/2-3 min rest and 21 rep/30-60s rest schemes as I want to build power and endurance but maintain size (no hypertrophy).

I haven't decided what kind of progression I will add in as I have no idea what kind of time frame I'm looking at to see real progression.

For anyone wondering, this is what the board looks like! I think I did a post about it ages ago but never put up any pictures. If anyone wants any sizes or drawings then let me know but I think it's probably fairly obvious from the shots.

And finally I think I have some psyche for climbing, I might start training at the right time and I might actually achieve a few more ticks this year...who knows! I'm hoping to post once a week. I've noticed there are a lot of youtube communities out there that do an update once a week (like all the homebrewers that do a homebrew wednesday) So thought it might be cool to try and get a Training Monday or homeboard Sunday going. We'll see, might take off. Either way I'll keep anyone who's interested updated.

It's been awhile...

To be more precise 9 weeks and 3 days. Bugger! No climbing and most things seemed to have fallen by the waste side. PhD's take over your life. Everyone I know who is either doing one, or who has done one, says the same thing. At some point it consumes you, and not in a good way. You become cynical, start to hate the sight of a computer, you have no idea what it's like to spend time in 'the real world' and start to develop a drink problem. Maybe that's just me but it sucks. It'll soon be done though and then you'll all have to call me Dr. Sanders, Mwa-ha-ha-haaaa!

Sacked the gym off, it just takes too much time to get there. So I'm using this opportunity (every cloud has a silver lining right?) to get my fingers back up to strength.  Got my finger board up and got a little plan together. Going to try and get to the wall once every one or two weeks. I can use this as a bit of a progress indicator. Training on a finger board is great but it doesn't always translate into climbing ability, specificity dictates that your training should be representative of what your goal is. So training on a finger board alone, with no climbing, will result mainly in being good at finger boarding. Hopefully though my previous experience will return and I'll come back with strong fingers. Watch this space. Maybe for once I'll start training at the right time and get strong over the winter.  Aiming to submit in December so should bring me in just at the right time.  I've learnt a lot from following a gym based program and hopefully I can transfer some of that to climbing related training.  When I get a spare half an hour I'll try to post about it.

On a totally separate note, and certainly a more positive one, my girlfriend Hannah has been nominated for a North West blogger Award. You can access here blog and vote here.

I'm afraid that's all I have time for at the moment but I hope to get a few more posts up over the next few weeks, I've got to have something to look forward to!

Classic Rock - Stanage Ticked

Ticked off the remaining Classic Rock ticks for Stanage this evening.

I'd done Flying Buttress and April crack before, Hannah having done Flying Buttress previously. Even though we'd climbed at Birchen on Tuesday I'd really forgotten just how challenging climbing on grit can be.

We warmed up on a great little severe called Bishops Route, S 4a ***  Climbing an initial short crack takes you up to a ledge. This is followed by a few interesting moves to good flakes and finish direct.

Bishop`s Route.
© deepstar, Aug 2012 - ukclimbing.com

Next was one of the Classic Rock Ticks - Hargreaves' Original Route VS 4c ***  One of Stanage's choice VSs. From a boulder, pull up and left onto the slab, traverse left then move up and right to a resting ledge. Continuing up the centre of the slab trending slightly rightwards. Well protected with modern technology. Photo page 96. © ROCKFAX

Hargreaves' Original Route, VS 4c *** - Image from Peterborough MC

As I said above, haven't climbed consistently on grit for some time now so it all feels a little alien.  It's a different style of climbing to anything else in the UK. Grit also is best climbed in cooler temps, it just gets sweaty and so do you! So this felt like a real challenge. With it being a slab you it doesn't take much strength so that was a good thing at least.

It's only 18m but looking up the slab the top seemed miles away. After some puffing and deep breaths I topped out and Hannah came up. I think retrospectively I really enjoyed the route, at the time I wondered if I still enjoyed the grit as much as I used to. I've come to the conclusion that grit is about a really confident approach and once you've got in to the groove things become much more enjoyable.

We finished off with a quick blast up Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct HS 4b ***  A great route up the wide crack splitting the centre of the face. Low in the grade but intimidating. Climb to the large overhang and shuffle out right to reach a small ledge below the main crack. From here route finding is not a problem. © ROCKFAX

 Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct HS 4b *** - © Chris wilson, Apr 2008

The little step out onto the front face is probably the crux, it's always scary stepping out onto something or round an arete. It just feels precarious and you usually notice that you're a long way off the ground (or at least at least it feels like that). The upper crack is straight forward, take a few friends though, they come in handy.  

We called it a day as we were getting had by the midges.  Not a bad little evening, 9 stars, 3 Top 50 climbs (Rockfax Top 50 Eastern Grit Guide) and 1 Classic Rock tick.

More climbing planned for the weekend so I'll put up our progress next week. Have a good weekend whatever you're doing! 

Birchen

Popped to Birchen last night to get a couple more routes on the classic rock list done!

Powder Money Parade HS 4b *** -  From the chock move right onto the arete, swing round the corner (4b, but harder for the short who will have to dangle) then teeter out right and finish up the well-positioned slab. Excellent. © ROCKFAX

Well I can tell you, it bloody wasn't excellent! The first part was a thrutch fest which I climbed in the most ungraceful fashion, but the slab somewhat made up for it.  The real problem though is the protection.  As so many have been on this route the placements (in particular the cams) have got bigger and worse as time has gone on. This leaves you with less than adequate placements.  Not to bad once you get to the traverse though. The garde has also gone up from my guidebook edition, used to be S 4a! 

Sail Buttress HS 4b ** -  A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to aid a shuffling traverse out to the left to access the final easier slab.© ROCKFAX

This is not the first time I've been on the route, I think I've seconded it 3 times, so it was a fairly straight forward proposition.  I think it's a quality route, and possibly worth of 3 stars but it would be nicer if it was a little more long lived so I can understand why it only gets 2.

Sail Buttress crux sequence© Jelly Mould Surfer, Apr 2013

15 down, 83 to go. Plan is to get out again this weekend, not sure where yet. Although I really want to go and Avalance/red wall/Longland's on Lliwedd. It's supposed to be a real adventure!

Video Round Up

Two post in one day - woah! This one is much quicker though.

I've written about the awesome and terrifying experience that is Gogarth and in particular Wen Zawn. It can be hard to get across just how it feels abseiling into a huge zawn (or sea cliff) knowing that once down there you have to climb out (unless you have the luxury of leaving the abseil rope).  Well this little video produced by the BMC might just highlight just what I'm talking about!

T Rex: The Movie from team_BMC on Vimeo.

This little beauty gives you a running commentary of the route. It's a very British perspective on climbing a route and really gives you a sense of what goes through your mind when climbing a trad route!

R 'n' S Special from Rob Matheson on Vimeo.


Climbing is generally engaged in by people who are aware of their impact, both on the environment and humanity. This particular video highlights that impact and how some climbers are trying to help change the lives of those affect by our desire to go and climb some the biggest peaks in the world!

Disposable Man from Outside Magazine on Vimeo.


This particular one isn't a video but an article. It links back to my last post about classic rock.  Libby Peters and Will Sim have ticked all the North Wales routes on the Classic Rock tick list in a single day - pretty impressive stuff! This consists of:

1. Great Gully VD 267m – Craig yr Ysfa

2. Gashed Crag VD 170m – East Face of Tryfan

3. Pinnacle Rib Route VD/S 175m – East Face of Tryfan

4. Grooved Arête HVD 233m – East Face of Tryfan

5. Direct Route VD 85m – Milestone Buttress

6. Direct Route HS 4c 91m – Glyder Fach

7. Hope VD 136m – Idwal Slabs

8. Lazarus S 4a 43m – Idwal Slabs

9. The Arete VD 24m – Idwal Slabs

10. Grey Slab VS 4b 85m – Glyder Fawr

11. Nea VS 4b 75m – Clogwyn y Grochan

12. Crackstone Rib S 4a 54m – Carreg Wastad

13. Wrinkle VD 71m – Carreg Wastad

14. Flying Buttress VD 87m – Dinas Cromlech

15. Spiral Stairs VD 84m – Dinas Cromlech

16. The Cracks HS 5a 90m – Dinas Mot

17. Main Wall HS 4b 140m – Cyrn Las

18. Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands S 4b 286m – Lliwedd

19. Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b 63m – Craig y Castell

You can read the rest of the story here.

Makes me wonder if you could do all the classic rock routes of the lakes in 1 day? Enjoy the videos!

Classic Rock Challenge.

As mentioned previously I'm working a fair bot at the moment so climbing has been restricted to days where the weather is perfect.  I've managed to put off going out and working instead. This weekend though I couldn't stay in while this amazing weather continued.

After taking an age to decide where to go and what to do we (myself and Hannah) finally decided on North Wales and the Ogwyn valley.  We had been here a few weeks previous and climbed Grooved Arête on Tryfan. I meant to write a post about it, oops! The short story is that we had a lovely weekend, I carried far too much gear for a route of the grade and that you should teach your second how to use a nut key; it's not obvious! 

Either way we headed back to the same campsite (Gwen Goflsaf Campsite) and set up camp on Saturday morning. As it was getting to the hottest part of day we relaxed in the sun and waited for the day to cool down before we made our way up to Clogwyn Bochlwyd.  This little crag, described as a good crag for an evening visit with outcrop climbing style, was a short and easy walk in (25 minutes) and had a range of routes from Diff up to E2.  We warmed up on Marble Slab. I misread the guide thinking it severe 4a.  After Hannah topped out I explain my thoughts - 'that was bloody stiff for 4a - bloody welsh grades!".  A quick check of the guide and all became clear; HS 4b. That'll be why then.


Next up was another HS 4b, Wall Climb.  An initial ramp, with little in the way of protection, is followed by a few wide moves to gain a sharp flake and the first bit of good gear. I found this to be the crux. After this a few big pulls on jugs and a mantle (supposed crux) leads to a heather terrace and possible stance.  As the route was only about 30m in length I carried on to save the faff with belays. You make you way round onto the face and are presented with jugs and big footholds but little in the way of protection.  Romping up this was great fun. I can image it being a different case had I not felt relaxed and enjoying the climbing.  We had a minor audience while climbing. When I'm having fun I tend to talk a fair bit of rubbish while climbing and generally joke about being scared. I'm sure our spectators must have thought I was a little loopy!

Clogwyn Bochlwyd - Marble slab on the right and Wall Climb on the left. Marble slab is the direct start to the route which follows the arete to the right at diff.

We headed back to the car and towards the nearest pub. After driving past several in Bethesda I decided to head back towards Capel Curig.  In the end I dropped Hannah off, raced to the nearest offy and got a few ciders. We had tea, had a read and called it a night. We planned an earlyish start for out adventures on Sunday.

I had planned on having a go at the HVS to the right of marble climb but didn't fancy it. Not having lead consistently for a while I could feel that my head wasn't keen for it!

Sunday morning rolled around and after being awoken by some D of E students at half 4 (note - just because you are up at 4:30am doesn't mean everyone else in the camp site would like top join you!) we got a few more hours of shut eye. Despite them being up way before us we had a quick breakfast, made some lunch and then headed off for our destination: Idwal Slabs.

Last summer I wrote about trying to tick the routes which comprise the Classic Rock tick list.  Classic rock is a book, complied by Ken Wilson, which accompanied Hard Rock: a feast of climbing literature, a celebration of 60 of the best routes in the land ranging from Mild Very Severe (MVS) to Extreme (E7), illustrated with a superb collection of crag and action shots.

I'd love to do both Classic Rock and Hard Rock. The Classic Rock list is perhaps more amenable but will still take some doing.  It consists of 83 routes, 219 stars, 6,313m of ascent and 234 pitches! That's a lot of climbing! (it is probably more than this in reality as you have to get to the climb and off again!). Perhaps the biggest challenge on the list is the Cullin ridge traverse. The grade given to this is VD, but it really doesn't equate to this. It's the most serious mountain challenge in the UK and it would be better to give an alpine style grade.  Either way, it's on the list and it's something me and Hannah are keen to do! You can check the full list here.

I've climbed 13 of the routes so far, many before I was serious about ticking them all.  Hence the trip to Idwal Slabs and an opportunity to tick 3 of the routes in one day.

(1) Hope, VD ***, 135m, 4 pitches.  Probably the most classic of the classics here and one of the most popular routes in Wales. The polished nature of the holds makes it a good bit harder in the wet 1) 45m. A quartzy slab leads to ledges and an A-shaped niche in the overlap. Pull through this, more slab work then leads to a stance 2) 25m. The glossy twin-cracks give skiddy work (good runners) to a flake, step left and continue to a stance in a corner 3) 20m. More neat climbing on nice crinkly holds leads to a stance in the groove 4) 28m. Climb the groove and sidestep the bulge leftwards, to reach ledgy ground 5) 18m. Continue until things rear up and an escape left is required. © ROCKFAX 

(2) Lazarus, S 4a *, 43m, 2 pitches. The easiest line hereabouts and a logical continuation to Tennis Shoe. Start from the grassy ledges in the base of Javelin gully 1) 4a, 12m. Three mini-mantels up the gully lead to a stance where it widens 2) 4a, 28m. Traverse left towards a jutting nose of rock and climb the groove to its right. © ROCKFAX 

(3) The Arete, VD *, 24m. Start up the groove then trend left to the well-positioned edge of the slab. Bold for the grade!© ROCKFAX

Idwal Slabs from Llyn Idwal.  Hope (red), Lazarus (blue) and The Arete (green).

We were, as expected, the first there and so didn't have to wait. I'd paired my rack right down, 10 QDs, 10 nuts, 3 cams and 2 slings. This made things much more enjoyable. We also took our 70m rope, which meant less belays. I mentioned to Hannah that this is a much more European way of climbing and really can make the difference when you go Alpine climbing. With a trip to the Dolomites planned next year, this would be the way we want to climb. 

First was Hope. Linking the first two pitches together and a full 70m rope length we were soon on our way. Considering the grade there is some epic climbing on this route.  The crux being the infamous twin cracks. The holds run out (sort of) about half way but a juggy flake comes to you rescue. Again running the next two together meant we were at the top of the route in no time.  By now a few more parties were starting up Hope and the various other climbs on the face.  

We had a quick check of the guide book, asking a soloing climber just to double check we were going up the correct way, and off we went again.  Lazarus only has 1 star but I think it's probably worth at least 1 more! The initial corner is interesting and requires a confident approach. Again linking both pitches together (2 ropes would be good for this or make sure you extend those runners!) makes things quicker.  The traverse is a little airy, with 150m of slab below, and has little in the way of gear but the holds just keep coming! Beware of the creaky flakes though!

And finally The Arete. A quick check of the guide and away we went.  Be warned this route is shocking for VD, I think it's possibly the most exposed and sketchy feeling VD I've ever done. The holds are all there and nothing is hard, but man...it's good value for VD that's for sure!

We topped out at 11.30, had quick Banana and few photos and off down the so called 'easy way off' which isn't all that easy! We had planned to summit Glydr Fawr but with the sun now beating down pysche for this was low. Llyn Idwal, the lake at the bottom of the slabs with it's pebble beach, seemed like a much nicer proposition for our lunch and off we went. And indeed it was! The water was warm and there were a few people swimming. I was tempted but with no towel we just dipped our feet in.

So that's the plan, any days we can get out climbing will be aimed at climbing routes on the Classic Rock List. We are off to Birchen in the Peak District this evening to tick the routes there. I'll pop a blog post up about it soon, so watch this space!

Hannah at the end of The Arete (Top) and us cooling our tired and sweaty feet off in Llyn Idwal (middle and bottom).

Making the most of the weather

With the weather being, for the UK, pretty dam awesome and having the car back (minus £170 for a new alternator OUCH!) we (me, Hannah and Matt) decided to go for a bit of after work climbing.

I'd got a big old list of places which could be good to check out but most were either too far, or the walk in just a little too long for an after work (post 5pm) climb. I picked Pule hill as I had my eye on a few routes. I've been before but due to weather or bottling it I'd not tried them. So why not now? Well there were a long list of reasons why I shouldn't but perhaps try giving yourself reason why you should do something it might just help you out!  

Of particular interest (i.e. I'd bottled this particular route 3 times I think) is The Great Scoop - VS 5a:  

18m. Well worth calling in for if you are passing this way. Traverse the slab to its apex and make an awkward move to access the ledge and a possible stance. Move right for a nicely exposed finish.

Hannah seconding. The crux is moving from the slab up the corner and onto the ledge. There is an E1 5b that goes left at the ledges out of the roof (looked like some interesting moves) and finishes up the slab. Maybe next time!

It starts out with a few easy moves and some good gear. Once established on the slab, the hand holds get a little smaller and it's all in you feet. With the route having had a good bit of sun, and a little breeze, the friction was fantastic.  I found the move off the slab and up to the ledge to be the crux. I tried it a few times and reversed as I wasn't happy committing. On the 3rd time of asking I got the moves done and found myself in the corner. Having not lead much for a while my brain was screaming out that I was coming off - I was pretty sure I was at one point shouting to Matt 'I'm off' only to find that things were okay provided I calmed myself.  

After a good rest on the ledge the exposed finish awaits.  I placed a few friends tried the moves a few times (sound familiar?) and reversed. A bit more of a rest I knew exactly what to do; match on a good pocket, move feet up, lock off and go for the break.  

Once I'd done it, I wasn't sure why I waited so long - but that's always the way.  What a quality little route, and to think I've hardly climbed this year. Just goes to show what a relaxed attitude and less pressure on yourself can do for you.  

On the exposed finish.  

Matt was up next. The first time I took him climbing was on Jean Jeanie - perhaps not the easiest introduction but he made it to the top. He didn't like me much after that. We've been climbing since but I thought I might have just done the same thing, he might just dislike me after this.  Despite that he made quick work of the slab (I found it a little precarious) and made his way through the crux (not bad for someone who climbs about once a year). It was at this point, pumped, sweaty and red faced, that I heard him utter 'I don't like you at the moment James'.  With some words of encouragement and positive reinforcement he had a crack at the finish.  Despite giving it his all the top alluded him, forarms like iron and totally pumped! Lowering him to the ground the smile on his face showed he'd enjoyed it. He said later it hadn't been like Jean Jeanie (terrifying!) but enjoyable, his only disappointment being not making the top - but he'd enjoyed it all the same PHEW!

Matt using his beastly shoulders and guns to good effect burling his way through the crux!

Hannah was next.  Again she too made quick work of the slab and made her way into the crux. With a little gusto and some bum shuffling she was soon through the crux and at the ledge.  After a minor rest, she attempted the final moves.  The quickest way was to power up to the finishing jug. The initial attack unsucessful, she decided to be lowered down. Quickly changing her mind, she had another brief rest to give it one all out go!  Match hands in the slot, move feet up, dead point to the break, move feet again and on the jug.  With some power screams (angry sounding grunts, fueled by earlier lack of understanding at something!) she put 110% in latched the final hold and topped out!

From top to bottom; Start of the crux moves; The bum shuffle technique, always handy ;  Hannah after topping out in the evening sun - pleased as punch!

With the sun going down and it getting a little colder we decided to call it a day. Even though it was 1 route, it packed a lot in for it's 18m and I happy to have ticked it.  We headed back to Manchester for some grub and a celebratory pint.  

It's a nice feeling to just go out without any pressure on what you've got to lead, or if you don't lead x,y,z or a route of a specific grade then the days not 'successful'. Odd thing is that by doing so I actually climbed something which did challenge me and I had fun.

Plans are afoot to head to North Wales this weekend to test out a new tent which we purchased last year and take Hannah's sister to celebrate them both finishing their respective exams.  A big congratulations to you both as I'm sure you'll have done just fine - whatever the grade you've both worked hard and given it your all! That's all anyone can ask of you; even yourselves!

Check back next week for some more pics of the weekend and fun times!